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1972 C10

#21
A few loose ends to catch me up.

I put together my own battery cables, bought a cheap crimper and put the ends on myself. I also assembled a relay box to control my electric engine fans and route a better path to the battery for my headlights.

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Final coat of epoxy on my inner fenders, they turned out fantastic. A little time in the sun to help set them up.

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#22
Which clear did you use and your opinion on how it sprayed? I'm in the market for clear in the near future. I have never sprayed bc/cc only a few panels in ss.
 
#23
Which clear did you use and your opinion on how it sprayed? I'm in the market for clear in the near future. I have never sprayed bc/cc only a few panels in ss.
I used SPI Universal Clear, it seems to spray good. A few reasons I like it. Its on the softer side of things with clears, so it works good for a slower guy like me that doesnt get to buffing right away, also makes it less chip prone. There is an absolute wealth of information on different topics regarding it, so you can learn things to do with it, things not to do. If there happens to not be a topic on a specific question someone on here will know it and be more than willing to help. Its regarded as one of the best clears on the market. The price is competitive. It seems relatively forgiving if you are learning the way of things. You can get excellent results with it.

The important thing to how it sprays is the painters technique, gun type, and gun setup. When I started on my cab I had only a good gun (LPH400), and nothing else. As I practiced on my fenders, asked some questions and did some reading of past posts I got the gun dialed in a little bit closer. By the time I flow coated the cab I had made a large improvement on the overall appearance of what I was getting for a finished product, and that was all down to gun setup and a technique to match that setup. With that being said, Im still far from have a good spray technique, but I can manage for a rookie when using a great product and good tool to spray it.
 
#24
Thanks sprint, you done a nice job! If I can lay it down half as good as you with the ls400 , me and my 77 k20 will be happy campers. Thanks again!
 
#26
Update for the last few weeks.

Been plugging away on wiring, and buffing during the week when I have some time. I have most of the exterior wiring done, Ive just switched more focus to the inside wiring today.

Some wiring pictures. Front harness routed to the front of the core support to keep it out of the engine bay. Pretty happy with how my fan connectors turned out, nicely hidden on the bottom side of the core support. 12v power fused to an amp, and to my relay box to run the fans, and headlights. And last picture is of the headlights I decided to run, the halo will act as a daytime running light, they are wired to keyed on power.

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I have one door done, the other door I burnt through due to a stupid mistake sanding. It has since been re-based, and cleared. In the meantime on that end of things I started on a fender, Im almost done cutting on it and then can move to final polish.

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One other thing Ive worked on is the vent windows and steering column. Both were disassembled and cleaned up, blasted or sanded and then epoxied and spi black base with Universal clear. I ended up essentially flow coating the majority of the steering column parts as I had some kind of problem with the clear. I think it was solvent pop, or something with moisture, but Im not sure. I flow coated them today and I still had some issues but not as bad so I think I'll role with them. Its been really humid so Im sure that has a role to play. Anyhow, a couple pictures of everything minus the column out getting a little sun today.

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#31
Haven't posted in awhile, finished up a lot of wiring and piddly stuff.

Steering column rebuilt
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Decided to go with a manual slider for the back window, pretty happy with how it looks and I think it will be great to have it opened up on a cruise.
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This picture shows the engine in its current form. It is probably 90% complete, I plan on painting the air intake with black epoxy to match alot of the under hood pieces.
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My interior guy almost has everything wrapped up, Im really happy with how this has turned out based on the pictures Ive seen.
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That brings me to a big point, finally getting it on the ground off of the jack stands. Its great to see it and see that vision Im working toward start to come together.
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I went from a pretty good feeling to later that day noticing some kind of dimple had formed in my paint the last couple weeks. Its really pretty minor in appearance, but the fact that something is going on just has me worried sick. I talked to Barry via text about it and he advised I get some sun on the cab before I panic, but panic had already set in, lol. Of coarse the problem is in the cab, probably the hardest piece to deal with.
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#32
Awesome truck man. I'm not a fan of Ford, but that color is incredible on that truck and you did a great job. I bought a 68 GMC C15 a few weeks ago and it's a blue longbed as well. It's going to be awhile before it gets to the point yours is at though. Did you use the Brothers kit for shortening the frame? And are you buying a whole new bed or cutting down the old bed?

I know the feeling of anxiety - I'm pretty sure the doors and hood on my 64 project are a different shade than the rest of the truck, I'm thinking the second gallon was mixed different and that I should have intermixed the two.
 
#33
Thanks, No kit, just measured, cut at a 45, squared, welded, and reinforced with the pieces we cut out.

On a bed I bought a new one, but I've had a ton of problems with it.

I mixed all my paint in halves, into quart cans. Then I labeled them based on how far down in the can I was. I can take can 8 which is the bottom and use it as the first coat and then jump to can 3 for a finish. I've read on here that the paint can change slightly as you go down in that same gallon as well. Hopefully both of them turn out alright, Ive had it in the back of my mind about matching.
 
#34
Thanks, No kit, just measured, cut at a 45, squared, welded, and reinforced with the pieces we cut out.

On a bed I bought a new one, but I've had a ton of problems with it.

I mixed all my paint in halves, into quart cans. Then I labeled them based on how far down in the can I was. I can take can 8 which is the bottom and use it as the first coat and then jump to can 3 for a finish. I've read on here that the paint can change slightly as you go down in that same gallon as well. Hopefully both of them turn out alright, Ive had it in the back of my mind about matching.
Where did you get the bed from and what problems are you having? My 64 project has a bed from LMC and the only complaint I have is that the tailgate won't close flush with the ends of the bed. I'm just looking ahead for the time when I buy a new bed for my 68 (probably going with the steel floor).
 
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