1970 Plymouth GTX

Excellent work! Must of been a real challenge to get coverage, and clear coat layout without dry spray on vehicle. I'm with 68 coronet on this one...great work, not my favorite color...How many coats of Universal?...what will you cut/buff it with?
 
Yea it is original. Y4 Citron Mist Gold. I looks a little better in person. I was hoping they would pick another color myself...lol. It gets black stripe on the hood and blackout tail light panel...maybe that will turn it around. 3 coats of universal and will get buffed.
 
You are a true master! I wish I could learn how to get around a car from you, right now I don't think I would even attempt it! Do you use the Extra Slow? How long does it take you do do a coat of clear?
 
jeremyb;16845 said:
LOL Bob. I've done them like that before (complete coverage) and got accused of doing them too nice...go figure. I guess factory is factory....but it does have epoxy on it this go around instead of bare metal.

What is fascinating to me is, I still run into guys on the net who say that universal clear just doesn't work for all overs in downdraft booths. They say it is too fast/doesn't stay open long enough. HMM..must be using something else?
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Maybe they don't shut the fans off as soon as Barry recommends?
 
Beautiful work Jeremy.. That is one happy customer!!!!!
 
thanks fellas..

extra slow act. never really timed myself on the coats. Usually takes about 6 hours from first coat of base to last coat of clear.

Worth noting, I tried my sikkens rep's 3000 rp on this job. Loved it for the base over my lph and w. Not quite sure on the clear......even though the rp was a bit quicker I think I get a better finish with the W. 1.3 tip.....that could be the reason. I use a 1.4 in my W for clear.
 
ready to be picked up.

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Sikkens Rally Black. I mix it with their matting agent to get a lower sheen.
 
Indeed it is. Maybe if I keep at barry long enough there will be one with a SPI label on it soon....LOL. isn't working so far!

Thanks Joe.
 
Well we were waiting on a trunklid for about a month. They don't repop them at the moment. about 2 months on this one. Usually once I get them in they take about a month or so to do. I get them with all necessary sheetmetal repairs already done. The mopar resto shop does all of that there then sends them to me for body and paint.
 
Thats the way to get them.. Sheet metal done and you slick em out..
 
Bondoking;16957 said:
Thats the way to get them.. Sheet metal done and you slick em out..
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That's also the problem though. This is by no means a hit on anyone here, but why is it so hard to find someone to do good metal work? Jeremy turns out awesome work constantly. I am just frustrated about the shops in my area. I have had to learn how to do everything on my own, becase no amount of money in my area can buy you good metal work, or any body work really.
 
Yeah strum, I understand what your saying.. I had a metal guy that was fantastic at one time.. But he got burned out.. I had to learn to do it all myself, but I think it makes you much better..
 
Jeremy, why not use the black spi epoxy, instead of rally black? I know that Barry has added uv screener to it.
 
I personally haven't done enough playing with the black epoxy to know how to get the right gloss levels I want. I have the formulas down with the rally and know that product in and out so I just use it. Also, I personally just like the look of the rally a lot better. Not knocking the look of the black epoxy...must just be me I guess.
 
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