1969 Plymouth Barracuda Restoration Thread

Next I welded in some returns.
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Then I got to thinking why not make the upper radiator support removable incase I ever wanted to remove the engine from the top vs dropping the k-member soooooo....... I welded together some 1/8" angle.
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Drilled bolt holes and welded a nut to the backside, then welded it to the returns.
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Dressed the welds
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Standing back and looking at my attempt of fabricating, something was missing, something didn't look pleasing to the eye. The upper radiator support didn't flow in very well with the existing, remaining upper core support.

Look at the return pieces to the existing radiator support. It looks out of place from all angles.
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Another
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So I made some filler pieces that blend in much better making the new upper radiator support not look like a total hack job.
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For me, it's the little things in life that make me happy. Chewed up a little time yesterday fabricating ( I love that word fabricating, lol ) a new sparkplug wire stand. The first one I made 30 years ago held up the test of time but, it was rather flimsy. The first stand I made out of copper tubing since I didn't have a welder at that time.

Original copper tubing on the left, and newest steel stand on the right.
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Installed
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Another
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JimKueneman said:
You won’t be sorry for that purchase
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This unit had good reviews and if it gets me thru this project, I'll be happy. Unit sells for $500 but I got it for $350. 10% off and then another $100 back after I called about a dent on one of the panels.
 
123pugsy said:
Well, that's nice and tidy. I like your latest version the best.
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Thanks, I was just a young dumb kid when I originally built this car. Didn't have many tools, not even a vice, lol. I guess back then I could have bent up a piece of 18 gauge but, my vision was to have a round vertical post for the stand.

.....and yes, I too like the newer version better. Maybe on my next attempt, I'll make it out of aluminum!
 
Another item fixed on the "to-do" list. The passanger fender was missing a welded in square nut when the car was manufacture that secures the front header panel. Now that I'm a professional welder, lol.....the repair is now fixed.

Passanger fender with missing welded in nut.
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Took a washer and filed a square hole. Then welded a square nut to the washer
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Weld dressed on the front side.
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Test fit before welding in
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Fender, nut and washer prepped with Upol copper weld thru primer.
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Welded in and weld dressed.
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Header Panel reinstall to check for any issue. None found.
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Klleetrucking said:
Nicely done sir.
It's the little victories like this that are rewarding, at least for me.
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^^^ Truth right there. I have a couple more things left on my to-do list. Weather out here is warming up so I can get back to stripping paint on the passanger side. Hoping I can get the car in final paint by October. Thanks for the kind words.

I'm curious how the Pro's would have went about repairing the missing nut?
 
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MJM said:
Picked up a multi process welder over the Holidays which has a tig weld function.
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MJM said:
Learning how to use my new mig gas welder. I've never had a welder that I could dial in the voltage for sheet metal. I practice many hours over the winter to learn how to dial in voltage and wire speed so I'd get good penetration without burning holes in body panel sheet metal My stitch welds are still a little proud. Need to work on flatting them a bit ( suggestions on how to do that would be appreciated) but, I'm getting good penetration to the back side of the panel / patch.
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A tig welder will make very small tacks, if you have a tight gap.



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You can get good penetration and may not even have to grind the tacks.

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I'm only good enough to get it done, and it does take more practice than mig welding, but you already have the tig.
 
chevman said:
A tig welder will make very small tacks, if you have a tight gap.



View attachment 20839

You can get good penetration and may not even have to grind the tacks.

View attachment 20840

I'm only good enough to get it done, and it does take more practice than mig welding, but you already have the tig.
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Very nice chevman. My tig welder allows me to fusion weld when I'm welding together two pieces of the same gauge thickness. I fusion welded many coupons over the winter, and after finding the correct amps needed for full penetration, and not to burn through. It was a piece of cake.

Where I had problems fusion welding occurred when welding two different gauge metals together, like 20 gauge to 18 gauge. I could eventually get the two pieces fusion welded together but, it was a weak weld....and yes I did start my fusion weld on the thicker Guage material before moving onto the thinner gauge metal.

What I learned is my tig machine does not accept a foot pedal or finger switch for variable amp controll, so I can start at low amps and ramp up. It starts and stops at whatever amps I have set.

I've switched over to the gas mig welder because it's allowing me more controll when welding 18 gauge to 20 gauge.

This upcoming Christmas I'll treat myself to a new tig welder that has either foot pedal, finger switch, or both for variable amp control. I just didn't know any better when I bought my first machine with a tig fuction.
 
My machine came with the finger control, but it take long to get rid of that and replace it with a foot control.
 
I actually use more power to get started quick, then back off. With a tight gap you don't need filler rod, for tacking or welding. For welding 18ga to 20ga just stay more on the thicker somewhat.
 
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MJM said:
Very nice chevman. My tig welder allows me to fusion weld when I'm welding together two pieces of the same gauge thickness. I fusion welded many coupons over the winter, and after finding the correct amps needed for full penetration, and not to burn through. It was a piece of cake.

Where I had problems fusion welding occurred when welding two different gauge metals together, like 20 gauge to 18 gauge. I could eventually get the two pieces fusion welded together but, it was a weak weld....and yes I did start my fusion weld on the thicker Guage material before moving onto the thinner gauge metal.

What I learned is my tig machine does not accept a foot pedal or finger switch for variable amp controll, so I can start at low amps and ramp up. It starts and stops at whatever amps I have set.

I've switched over to the gas mig welder because it's allowing me more controll when welding 18 gauge to 20 gauge.

This upcoming Christmas I'll treat myself to a new tig welder that has either foot pedal, finger switch, or both for variable amp control. I just didn't know any better when I bought my first machine with a tig fuction.
Click to expand...

You don't need any stinking foot pedals or finger switches, just practice. ;) Have the rod ready, and give it the mustard if a hole starts.
I don't have any pedals or switches. Can't stand them.
 
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I have a full week of good painting weather next week so I'm back to stripping body panels. Today I took care of the passanger front fender, with a razor blade, then abrasive disk. Tomorrow I'll media blast the inside of the fender, along with the front header panel and hit everthing with an 80 grit da.

Question for today is regarding the front fender bumper mounting hole. It's a bit messed up. My feeling is not to hammer and dolly too much and thin out the metal, however......if I do hammer and dolly it, I was contemplating welding a washer on the inside to act as a backer plate which would add additional strength to the mounting pad/hole?

What do you guys think, thoughts or suggestions welcome.

Front passanger fender
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Bumper mounting hole
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Another view
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