1968 Plymouth GTX

I can see the draw of having a spot weld template but then again I do not think there is any substitute for test fitting the part before making the holes, at that point you can mark up the part with a sharpie, masking tape, or even a scribe to guide spot placement, that's what I and most of the guys I have watched in collision repair have done it.
 
I use a combination of a dyna file, drill, grinder / die grinder, what ever gets it done the easyiest. I usually test fit, scribe or spray layout fluid if needed and mark it up. Then pull it and start drilling, then another test fit. Just my .02

John
 
The old floor pan is out!
Old Floor Pan Removed.JPG


Floor Pan Removed Front Area.JPG


54 years of dust accumulation:
54 years of Dirt in Frame rails.JPG


Now to media blast all this and get it into epoxy.
Then I will begin the process of transferring the parts from the bottom of the old pan to the new one.
 
DanMcG said:
That's impressive! How did ya get it out in one piece?
Click to expand...
Once all the spot welds were removed, I raised the front of the pan enough to allow it to slide forward about 2". This gave the rear portion, which goes under the leading edge of the back floor pan, clearance to lift it up. Then I slid the entire pan backwards about 4".
From there I lifted the rear of the pan enough to pass through the back window area and pulled the rear of pan towards me to angle it out of the passenger door area.

Hopefully the new pan will install in a similar manner.
 
When you actually see what holds these cars together, makes you wonder How they ever withstood the Engines that were in them and what 'could be wrong from a previous wreck that You ain't seeing when you buy it.
No Carfax on These babies.
Great job 68.
 
MikeK said:
When you actually see what holds these cars together, makes you wonder How they ever withstood the Engines that were in them and what 'could be wrong from a previous wreck that You ain't seeing when you buy it.
No Carfax on These babies.
Great job 68.
Click to expand...
I am considering a Level 1 Frame stiffening kit from AMD
Has frame rail connectors and the front and rear torque boxes.

This is a picture from another supplier, USCartool, but it shows were these parts are applied.
Frame Stiffener Kit.JPG
 
Last edited:
Just the subframe connectors and torque box's are big improvement. I have no idea what all is possible Now.
They were just coming out with EFI aftermarket and such when I quit it so my Street Dominator intake and 850 Competition Thermoquad is old hat.
Cool that the kit includes mini tubs and spring relocation.
Maybe reup my Mopar Action subscription and see if Rick is still around and up to new low buck poor man upgrades.
 
MikeK said:
Just the subframe connectors and torque box's are big improvement. I have no idea what all is possible Now.
They were just coming out with EFI aftermarket and such when I quit it so my Street Dominator intake and 850 Competition Thermoquad is old hat.
Cool that the kit includes mini tubs and spring relocation.
Maybe reup my Mopar Action subscription and see if Rick is still around and up to new low buck poor man upgrades.
Click to expand...
The mini tubs, etc. are the Level 3 kit. I am just doing the Level 1 kit that has the frame connectors and front and rear torque boxes.
Here's a pic of AMD's level 1 kit:
Level 1 Frame Stiffening Kit AMD.jpg


I used the other picture because it showed placement on the vehicle.
 
Transferred the emergency brake cable guide to the new pan. Sandblasted the seat belt nut plates and got them installed.
Drilled the hole for the shifter linkages and then started measuring and laying out the spot welds.

Sealt Belt Nut supports installed..JPG


Shifter Linkage Hole drilled in new pan.JPG



Emergency Brake Cable Holder.jpg


Waiting on a Tungsten Carbide nozzle for my sandblaster, so I can finish blasting the frame rails. Also waiting form my SPI epoxy order to arrive. :)
 
Test fitting the floor pan.
Test Fit Floor Pan.JPG

Test Fit Floor Pan Rear.JPG


I had to repair my pressure blaster, as the media had worn a hole in the barbed portion of the aluminum T. A friend had given me this Horrible Freight blaster a few years ago and the tank is the only thing I haven't had to replace so far.

Hope to get the rest of the floor and frame supports blasted and epoxy primed by the end of the week.
In the mean time, more spot welds holes to drill.
 
So I decided I couldn't really trust the spot weld placement transferred from the old pan, due to it being so rusted and distorted.

I ended up taking measurements and then laying some masking tape with one edge on the center line. From there I measured the old spot welds mainly for distance between them. That proved to be hit or miss at best so I placed them where I thought they should be.

Spot Weld Placement.JPG


Just for grins, I counted all the spot welds on just the passenger side of the floor pan. 116 of those babies.

Laying out the driver's side now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top