1968 Plymouth GTX

Did I mention how much fun this is turning into?
LOL... I'm just glad I'm done with that on my project. I had 2 doors that were quite challenging and a RR quarter that needed a patch panel at the bottom behind the wheel arch. I thought filling and blocking was going to be the worst. Turns out that isn't bad.
 
Okay, got back to work on it today.
Flattened a piece of copper pipe to use for heat sink and it helped.
Lower Right window patch.JPG

Decided to get the trunk floor replaced before installing the rear deck filler panel.
Cutting Floor for Removal.jpg


After drilling all the spot welds I could reach out. I cut the floor just in front of the cross brace.
Old Floor Front Section Removed.JPG


A very dirty job for sure but it's out.
Old floor removed.JPG


Now I need to clean it all up, remove any remaining pieces of the old panel, hammer and dolly all the edges straight and then get it in epoxy.
 
Trying to figure out a way to get the entire floor pan in without having to cut it. It almost fits but not quite.

Here's some pictures of how another guy does it but removing the rear cross brace is not easy. It is spot welded to everything, including the inner side of the trunk floor extensions. This would require cutting out a portion of the lower quarter panel to gain access to the spot welds.

Floor Pan Installation 6.jpg


Here you can see how distorted the tail panel is.
Floor Pan Installation 1.jpg

Floor Pan Installation 2.jpg

Floor Pan Installation 4.jpg

Floor Pan Installation 5.jpg


This approach doesn't really appeal to me.

Notice the rows of spot welds running front to back where it meets the frame rails. I am thinking of drilling these first and then maybe cutting a line front to back through one row of those spot welds. This would allow me to set the panel in place and also give me metal behind where I will be welding.
 
I'd do what that feller did. Except drill the spots rather than break them to keep the panel flat.
Looks like he went in with an air chisel.
Welding on top of another piece of steel gives you no chance to planish any distortion.

Also, behind the bumper is a better place to have some plug welds rather than warping your new trunk floor.
Up to you though.
 
Jim how did you split the floor from the extensions?
I cut the floor pan right at the edge which left the strip welded to the extension. Then I drilled out the spot welds after removing the main floor pan. The spot welds I couldn't reach, I used a grinder and removed the strip of metal and weld.

I am considering using panel adhesive in the areas where it will be difficult to spot weld the floor pan to the extensions.
 
Got the trunk floor pan into place today and kept it in one piece.
I learned a few things along the way and hope they might help some others.

First, you have to drill out all the spot welds along the lower portion and ends of the tail panel. You will be bending this out almost horizontal before your done.

Second, you will need to raise the rear of the car high enough to get the front edge of the floor pan under the tail panel. I was able to do this on my jack stands by raising them about 6".

Next, you want to make sure you have all your spot weld holes drilled, especially where the pan and trunk floor extensions weld up. You will notice in this first picture how far I got before I realized I hadn't drilled the holes yet. Fortunately I was able to drill them with the panel in this position. Notice I clamped it into place while drilling.
Install Floor Pan 1.JPG


I used a couple of small pieces of 2x4 to hold the tail panel open but found they only worked to get the above position. From here I would work one side at a time by bending the tail panel with one hand while pushing the floor pan up an inch or two. Eventually I got to this stage where the front edge cleared the rear deck panel supports and is resting against the trunk lid hinge brackets.
Install Floor Pan 2.JPG


From here on out, I would push on the pan with my legs while lifting the tail panel with my hands high enough to let the panel move forward.
Eventually I got it into place and started realizing how many spot welds were staring back at me. LOL

New Pan in place.JPG


Here's how far the tail panel was bent.
Tail Panel Bent.JPG


I carefully bent it back down and then using vise grips and a body hammer got it back into fairly good shape. I'll work on it more when I start welding everything into place.
Reshaping tail panel.JPG
 
Finally got the trunk floor and rear deck filler panel welding into place.
Sprayed a quick coat of epoxy on it (still wet in the picture) to prevent rusting. We have had a pretty good Monsoon season here and the humidity is at levels I haven't felt in a long time.

Still have some work to do, since I got grinder happy in a couple of spots and being in a hurry, I ran and wrinkled the epoxy it a couple of places.
Trying to get the hang of spraying while my body is contorted and twisted in an effort to reach is my excuse, and I'm sticking to it. LOL
Trunk Floor in Epoxy Primer.JPG


Tail Panel in Epoxy Primer.JPG
 
You Guys are going to shame me into this aren't you ? Lol..

My Bee isn't that bad but that bat wing rear glass channel never had a chance in hades of a long life.
"Hey,let's put the glass bottom in a bucket on each side". Genius.... Does look Great though.
Where all my rust came from really, if that hadn't rotted there,it would be rust free.
Really appreciate your detailed steps because I'm on the same road many miles back.
 
If those corners are prone to holding water, I think I would drill a weep hole, and on the trunk side, weld in a nipple to attach a 1/8" hose that exits the bottom truck pan.
 
You Guys are going to shame me into this aren't you ? Lol..

My Bee isn't that bad but that bat wing rear glass channel never had a chance in hades of a long life.
"Hey,let's put the glass bottom in a bucket on each side". Genius.... Does look Great though.
Where all my rust came from really, if that hadn't rotted there,it would be rust free.
Really appreciate your detailed steps because I'm on the same road many miles back.
Back in the day when you could be these cars brand new for under $3000, I doubt they figured any of them would be around for 54 years.
 
Back
Top