dhutton01
Backyard Hack
JimC taught me that pigtails are often due to the clear being too soft. Needs to cure longer before cutting. What discs are you using?
Don
1964 Buick Riviera
- Thread starter 64Rivi
- Start date
Don
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
yea I gave up on the DA for cut and buff. I can’t keep things clean enough to not get pig tails.
64Rivi
Promoted Users
Guys, thank you all very much for the kind words and thumbs up. Getting to this stage (finally) has renewed the fire on this long, long, long, restoration.
MX; I understand your frustration. Part of the reason for the long pause between posts was a lot of trial and error along the way. After I did the initial cut with 1000 on a hard block....I thought my shoulder was going to fall off. By far the worst part of "custom sanding"
I tried switching over to Jim C's method to save some time (and work) and went with pink assilex wet on a DA for the 1500 step. For some reason, it just didn't seem to cut the 1000 grit scratches away so I ended up going back to 1500 wet on a soft block backed by a hard block by hand. I then followed up with the 3000 Trizact on the DA slightly wet (not too much water).....and it ended up leaving a polished finish over the previous scratches. It was like I clear-coated over the 1500 scratches. Not sure if this was what it was supposed to look like so I hit a small section with the wool pad and ACA 500.....some 1000 scratches came screaming back at me.
I re-grouped after that and went back to 2000 on a soft block backed by a hard block wet. Again, by far the biggest help was sanding in the sun light as it really helped to see if you missed any of the previous grit scratches (since it's black, I couldn't use guide coat). I found I liked sanding on a 45 degree angle as it was more natural to my arm movement (as opposed to straight). Just kept switching direction with each grit change: from 45 to the left.....then 45 to right....then back to the left again. since you are going over your previous scratches in the opposite direction, you could see if you left anything behind while sighting the panel in different directions in the sun. A bright halogen shop light works too but I found there was nothing better than the sun.
After that, went back over the whole car with 3000 on the DA.......failed once again. I didn't realize it till I was done but again the polished finish came back without knocking out the 2000. Went back and did the trizact by hand on a soft block......bingo.
The only thing I could think of is that my DA is not aggressive enough. I'm using a dynabrade 21055 which is more for light sanding and polishing (3/32" throw). Either way......I'm glad the sanding part if finished.....and with the way it came out.
MX; I understand your frustration. Part of the reason for the long pause between posts was a lot of trial and error along the way. After I did the initial cut with 1000 on a hard block....I thought my shoulder was going to fall off. By far the worst part of "custom sanding"
I tried switching over to Jim C's method to save some time (and work) and went with pink assilex wet on a DA for the 1500 step. For some reason, it just didn't seem to cut the 1000 grit scratches away so I ended up going back to 1500 wet on a soft block backed by a hard block by hand. I then followed up with the 3000 Trizact on the DA slightly wet (not too much water).....and it ended up leaving a polished finish over the previous scratches. It was like I clear-coated over the 1500 scratches. Not sure if this was what it was supposed to look like so I hit a small section with the wool pad and ACA 500.....some 1000 scratches came screaming back at me.
I re-grouped after that and went back to 2000 on a soft block backed by a hard block wet. Again, by far the biggest help was sanding in the sun light as it really helped to see if you missed any of the previous grit scratches (since it's black, I couldn't use guide coat). I found I liked sanding on a 45 degree angle as it was more natural to my arm movement (as opposed to straight). Just kept switching direction with each grit change: from 45 to the left.....then 45 to right....then back to the left again. since you are going over your previous scratches in the opposite direction, you could see if you left anything behind while sighting the panel in different directions in the sun. A bright halogen shop light works too but I found there was nothing better than the sun.
After that, went back over the whole car with 3000 on the DA.......failed once again. I didn't realize it till I was done but again the polished finish came back without knocking out the 2000. Went back and did the trizact by hand on a soft block......bingo.
The only thing I could think of is that my DA is not aggressive enough. I'm using a dynabrade 21055 which is more for light sanding and polishing (3/32" throw). Either way......I'm glad the sanding part if finished.....and with the way it came out.
MX442
.
Guys, thanks for all the details. I did a panel yesterday all by hand. No swirls... Took forever. Don, the pigtails were universal clear sprayed about a month old. Jim, I had the same experience. I could only get about 1 square foot before the paper loads up and swirls. I used Eagle yellow film 1200, assilex 1500, and 3000/8000 trizact. I stop and blow them with compressed air as soon as a swirl shows up. I like how the 1200 DA quickly knocks down the peel, though. I might try a quick pass with the DA to knock most of the texture, then go back to hand for the first few steps.
64Rivi
Promoted Users
Finished up the trunk last weekend.....and tickled with those results as well.
I ended up sanding the previous epoxy with 180 and red scotchbrite (that was torture with all the detail sanding) and hit it with two more coats of epoxy. I meant to let it set 48-hours after confirming cure time on a previous post but it was more like 96-hours by the time I got back to it. Finished the trunk with Zolatone Onyx Black splatter paint....and enjoyed every minute of it.
After all the detailed prep and paint for the body to get it as flat and smooth a finish as possible, this was like working with finger paint! Just slinging it around all over the place not worrying about overlap, runs, straight passes, etc......the messier the better.
I was actually surprised that I couldn't find much application information on the internet outside of the spec sheet and that was kind of vague and rigid. So, in case it helps someone else, here's what I did.
I hate taking my pressure pot out unless it's a big project....between setting it up, cleaning it and tearing it down....so I was trying to avoid it. However, with all the nooks, crannies and tight spots in the trunk (that I fought when spraying the epoxy) it was clear the pressure pot had to come out. I used a 2-quart devilbis pot with a Binks Mach 1 HVLP. The spec sheet calls for a 2.0 tip but a 1.7 is the largest they make for that gun.....it works just fine with some adjustment.
Instead of the 10 psi pot pressure, 15 psi worked better (too much sputter with 10 psi/ not consistent....but again; using a 1.7 tip). For the shear coat, it calls for just opening the fluid needle.....I went 3-turns out with about 50% fan and laid the shear coat with a gun distance about 12-inches away. I wanted a smaller fan since there were a lot of small areas to get into.
For the second coat, the pot pressure stayed at 15 psi, needle backed out another 1/2 to full turn and a gun distance of about 36-inches (give or take depending where you are shooting and if you have enough room). And like finger paint, it was satisfyingly fun to throw er' down!
I ended up sanding the previous epoxy with 180 and red scotchbrite (that was torture with all the detail sanding) and hit it with two more coats of epoxy. I meant to let it set 48-hours after confirming cure time on a previous post but it was more like 96-hours by the time I got back to it. Finished the trunk with Zolatone Onyx Black splatter paint....and enjoyed every minute of it.
After all the detailed prep and paint for the body to get it as flat and smooth a finish as possible, this was like working with finger paint! Just slinging it around all over the place not worrying about overlap, runs, straight passes, etc......the messier the better.
I was actually surprised that I couldn't find much application information on the internet outside of the spec sheet and that was kind of vague and rigid. So, in case it helps someone else, here's what I did.
I hate taking my pressure pot out unless it's a big project....between setting it up, cleaning it and tearing it down....so I was trying to avoid it. However, with all the nooks, crannies and tight spots in the trunk (that I fought when spraying the epoxy) it was clear the pressure pot had to come out.
I used a 2-quart devilbis pot with a Binks Mach 1 HVLP. The spec sheet calls for a 2.0 tip but a 1.7 is the largest they make for that gun.....it works just fine with some adjustment.Instead of the 10 psi pot pressure, 15 psi worked better (too much sputter with 10 psi/ not consistent....but again; using a 1.7 tip). For the shear coat, it calls for just opening the fluid needle.....I went 3-turns out with about 50% fan and laid the shear coat with a gun distance about 12-inches away. I wanted a smaller fan since there were a lot of small areas to get into.
For the second coat, the pot pressure stayed at 15 psi, needle backed out another 1/2 to full turn and a gun distance of about 36-inches (give or take depending where you are shooting and if you have enough room). And like finger paint, it was satisfyingly fun to throw er' down!
64Rivi
Promoted Users
Continuing to push the ball forward...
Re-assembled the trunk hinges and got the trunk lid back on and aligned with the weatherstrip back on.
And it's a bit early in the re-assembly but I needed a little more inspiration....so I threw some jewelry back on the girl..... Plus it'll keep the new tail light lenses from getting kicked around in the garage.
Then over to the sides for the nail biting experience of hanging the doors by myself without scratching the jambs. Here's probably one of the benefits of the removable doors skins......half the weight!
Then a little more bling with the drip edge, A-pillar molding and roof rail weather strip base...
Now the not-so-fun part.....door and quarter glass. Make sure you pack your patience in the tool box for this job. Between the vent window, door glass and quarter glass, there are 20 different adjustment points....literally. Getting the glass lined up to the weatherstrip, aligned in the proper plane and aligned next to one another took a LOT of hours. Even more frustrating -constantly getting white lithium grease all over you since everything was lubed during assembly.
Best part is that you get to do it all over again now that the full weight of the door is back with the glass in and the doors skins on. The doors will have to be aligned -again- once the fenders go back on. Then the door skins come off yet (again) to tweak and fine tune the glass. At that point.....I can only hope that's the last time the skins have to come off and on.
And I didn't forget.....eventually I'll get back to posting some more pics of the previous restoration work before the paint.
Re-assembled the trunk hinges and got the trunk lid back on and aligned with the weatherstrip back on.
And it's a bit early in the re-assembly but I needed a little more inspiration....so I threw some jewelry back on the girl..... Plus it'll keep the new tail light lenses from getting kicked around in the garage.
Then over to the sides for the nail biting experience of hanging the doors by myself without scratching the jambs. Here's probably one of the benefits of the removable doors skins......half the weight!
Then a little more bling with the drip edge, A-pillar molding and roof rail weather strip base...
Now the not-so-fun part.....door and quarter glass. Make sure you pack your patience in the tool box for this job. Between the vent window, door glass and quarter glass, there are 20 different adjustment points....literally. Getting the glass lined up to the weatherstrip, aligned in the proper plane and aligned next to one another took a LOT of hours. Even more frustrating -constantly getting white lithium grease all over you since everything was lubed during assembly.
Best part is that you get to do it all over again now that the full weight of the door is back with the glass in and the doors skins on. The doors will have to be aligned -again- once the fenders go back on. Then the door skins come off yet (again) to tweak and fine tune the glass. At that point.....I can only hope that's the last time the skins have to come off and on.
And I didn't forget.....eventually I'll get back to posting some more pics of the previous restoration work before the paint.
64Rivi
Promoted Users
Hung the fenders and re-installed the door skins this week. The fender script had to be applied before the fenders go on. Thankfully, it's one of the pieces of chrome that is actually re-manufactured for this car......it's like the cherry on top.
Love this picture of the front....you can get a good sense of the trident-like front end on the first generation Rivi.
Now that the fenders are back on, time to re-adjust the doors for final gap with the weight of the windows back in. Thinking about adding a 5 or 10 lb. weight to the door to account for the weight of the door panel and hardware.....just to be sure the door doesn't move again when they all go back on.
After that......yup.....removing the doors skins again and re-adjusting the window glass......again.
Mark
Love this picture of the front....you can get a good sense of the trident-like front end on the first generation Rivi.
Now that the fenders are back on, time to re-adjust the doors for final gap with the weight of the windows back in. Thinking about adding a 5 or 10 lb. weight to the door to account for the weight of the door panel and hardware.....just to be sure the door doesn't move again when they all go back on.
After that......yup.....removing the doors skins again and re-adjusting the window glass......again.
Mark
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Looks terrific. Nice work.
64Rivi
Promoted Users
Happy New Year! Hope the holidays found you and your families all well.
I thought things would have progressed a little more consistently at this point but it's been one battle after another with the tedious. Think you have all the parts?....think again ......and back to trying to find them and wait for them to come in. The devil is still very much in the details.
After getting all of the window regulators rebuilt with new rollers and installing the glass, I find out (the hard way) that the aftermarket rollers are not really the correct ones. The after market rollers are just a plastic wheel very loosely fitted on a rivet. The originals were a two piece design that had a wafer washer in the middle to take out the slack.....and it makes a huge difference on how the windows fit in the channels and ride along the way. I finally found someone who makes them for early Corvettes (and of course, Corvette prices!) so, out the windows came again to re-do all the wheels.
After doing the windows (twice), the door skins went back on (again) and time for the final fitment of the door gaps and fender. Another tedious job but all the work put into adding material to the doors to get the gaps right as well as bringing the surfaces up level with the fenders and quarters to make the car flat.....was alllll worth it. Thought I had a better picture but this was the only one:
And just for more fun.....the skins came back off to do the final glass adjustments to the weather strips (that was a HUGE job to get it all to fit right and ride ride....glad that part is over). Another good thing about the door skins being removable; I just left them off for now which keeps them from getting scratched while moving around the rest of the car!
When I had originally pulled the front trim off the car, I rebuilt and polished/ painted everything before wrapping it up in brown paper and storing it in bins. At this point, I thought I would just be un-wrapping everything and putting the front end back together....nope. What I forgot was that about 90% of the original hardware didn't hold this together. I had everything in there from machine screws to sheet rock screws to body bolts holding it all together originally. went back through the original body manual and figured out all the original hardware so I could put it together correctly.
Again, not much is made for this car aftermarket wise. My front chrome was in pretty decent shape outside of some usual pitting and wear and tear. I cleaned up all the chrome (I use 0000 steel wool and Mother's Mag Polish) and re-sprayed the dull aluminum in-between the grills. What I also forgot about was some of the broken cast pieces that I said would fix at a later time.....well; now it's later.
The headlight assemblies are pot metal and have stud mounts in the back that attach to the inner fender well. They are notorious for snapping off as there is not much supporting them. I had originally tried re-attaching them with JB weld but realized that not only did I not grind the chrome off first but there was not much support there for them to begin with (they snapped off again pretty easily).
Wanted to try and re-assemble with Muggy Weld but didn't want to chance ruining the chrome with the heat and have to get them plated. I improvised with some stainless washers for where the base broke off, aluminum angles for support with machine screws, ground off the chrome and back to the JB weld. It's not pretty but it's working well and mostly hidden behind the grill.
Still waiting for more hardware to arrive so haven't been able to get the front end assembled just yet.....
Switching gears to the rear window- there's a heavy pot metal ribbed molding that runs along the bottom of the window. It has studs that go through the body and held on with cut-nuts......for the life of me, I cannot understand the use of cut-nuts on pot metal. One little turn and the pot metal is stripped and your screwed....literally.
Got pretty luck on this molding, however. The studs were about 1/4 inch diameter and tampered at the end slight. Perfect fit for a 1/4-20 tap! I used some cutting fluid and gently cut the studs (hoping the studs would not snap off in the process). Boom! worked great and left a small shoulder at the base for going through the sheet metal (shown with a bead of dum-dum prior to assembly).
I used a thick stainless steel spacer washer for the base (to clear the shoulder and provide support agains the body when assembling) as well as a stainless barrel nut to spread the stress over the entire stud when tightening.
The molding went on flawlessly. The nuts also gave me just a little more torque to suck the molding into the body and squeeze the dum-dum tight. Would not have been able to do that with the original cut-nuts.
And it's pictures like this that keep me staring at the car and not getting more done!
I thought things would have progressed a little more consistently at this point but it's been one battle after another with the tedious. Think you have all the parts?....think again ......and back to trying to find them and wait for them to come in. The devil is still very much in the details.
After getting all of the window regulators rebuilt with new rollers and installing the glass, I find out (the hard way) that the aftermarket rollers are not really the correct ones. The after market rollers are just a plastic wheel very loosely fitted on a rivet. The originals were a two piece design that had a wafer washer in the middle to take out the slack.....and it makes a huge difference on how the windows fit in the channels and ride along the way. I finally found someone who makes them for early Corvettes (and of course, Corvette prices!) so, out the windows came again to re-do all the wheels.
After doing the windows (twice), the door skins went back on (again) and time for the final fitment of the door gaps and fender. Another tedious job but all the work put into adding material to the doors to get the gaps right as well as bringing the surfaces up level with the fenders and quarters to make the car flat.....was alllll worth it.
Thought I had a better picture but this was the only one:And just for more fun.....the skins came back off to do the final glass adjustments to the weather strips (that was a HUGE job to get it all to fit right and ride ride....glad that part is over). Another good thing about the door skins being removable; I just left them off for now which keeps them from getting scratched while moving around the rest of the car!
When I had originally pulled the front trim off the car, I rebuilt and polished/ painted everything before wrapping it up in brown paper and storing it in bins. At this point, I thought I would just be un-wrapping everything and putting the front end back together....nope. What I forgot was that about 90% of the original hardware didn't hold this together. I had everything in there from machine screws to sheet rock screws to body bolts holding it all together originally. went back through the original body manual and figured out all the original hardware so I could put it together correctly.
Again, not much is made for this car aftermarket wise. My front chrome was in pretty decent shape outside of some usual pitting and wear and tear. I cleaned up all the chrome (I use 0000 steel wool and Mother's Mag Polish) and re-sprayed the dull aluminum in-between the grills. What I also forgot about was some of the broken cast pieces that I said would fix at a later time.....well; now it's later.
The headlight assemblies are pot metal and have stud mounts in the back that attach to the inner fender well. They are notorious for snapping off as there is not much supporting them. I had originally tried re-attaching them with JB weld but realized that not only did I not grind the chrome off first but there was not much support there for them to begin with (they snapped off again pretty easily).
Wanted to try and re-assemble with Muggy Weld but didn't want to chance ruining the chrome with the heat and have to get them plated. I improvised with some stainless washers for where the base broke off, aluminum angles for support with machine screws, ground off the chrome and back to the JB weld. It's not pretty but it's working well and mostly hidden behind the grill.
Still waiting for more hardware to arrive so haven't been able to get the front end assembled just yet.....
Switching gears to the rear window- there's a heavy pot metal ribbed molding that runs along the bottom of the window. It has studs that go through the body and held on with cut-nuts......for the life of me, I cannot understand the use of cut-nuts on pot metal. One little turn and the pot metal is stripped and your screwed....literally.
Got pretty luck on this molding, however. The studs were about 1/4 inch diameter and tampered at the end slight. Perfect fit for a 1/4-20 tap! I used some cutting fluid and gently cut the studs (hoping the studs would not snap off in the process). Boom! worked great and left a small shoulder at the base for going through the sheet metal (shown with a bead of dum-dum prior to assembly).
I used a thick stainless steel spacer washer for the base (to clear the shoulder and provide support agains the body when assembling) as well as a stainless barrel nut to spread the stress over the entire stud when tightening.
The molding went on flawlessly. The nuts also gave me just a little more torque to suck the molding into the body and squeeze the dum-dum tight. Would not have been able to do that with the original cut-nuts.
And it's pictures like this that keep me staring at the car and not getting more done!
64Rivi
Promoted Users
Still plugging away at the details. Seems you empty one can of worms and go bust open another one which keeps process a little slower than you'd like. But getting there....
After re-fitting all the front end components, I came to the conclusion that the the way I restored those parts years ago (when I first disassembled them) just doesn't match up to the body and paint work that the car has now. So back at it......broke out the paint stripper to remove the previous paint work I did hoping to just re-paint but the pitting and casting flash was just too much and needed cleaning up.
I ended up taping all the chrome reveals and blasting them to remove the argent silver paint that Buick put as an accent in-between. There was a decent amount of pitting from the pot metal so carefully ran a rotary file in the spaces of the grill and filed the parking lots with a needle file to clean them up and get them flat again.
After cleaning all the parts up, it was back to the painstaking task of taping the reveals all over again.... Can't figure out how they did this efficiently from the factory. The parts were completely chromed and the recesses were painted. Too detailed for a masking template and I didn't see any evidence of them spraying the whole part and wiping the edges. I could have used an easier method for sure!
Sprayed two wet coats of SPI epoxy which worked out awesome! It ended up filling most of the shallow pitting marks and I didn't have to go in and sand it level to make them disappear.....a true time saver for sure. Followed that up with a few coats of Argent Silver before unmasking the chrome surfaces.
Put it all back together again.......and now I'm happy with it. LOL. My own worst enemy sometimes. Either that or I have to stop raising my expectations as I move along this project.
After re-fitting all the front end components, I came to the conclusion that the the way I restored those parts years ago (when I first disassembled them) just doesn't match up to the body and paint work that the car has now. So back at it......broke out the paint stripper to remove the previous paint work I did hoping to just re-paint but the pitting and casting flash was just too much and needed cleaning up.
I ended up taping all the chrome reveals and blasting them to remove the argent silver paint that Buick put as an accent in-between. There was a decent amount of pitting from the pot metal so carefully ran a rotary file in the spaces of the grill and filed the parking lots with a needle file to clean them up and get them flat again.
After cleaning all the parts up, it was back to the painstaking task of taping the reveals all over again.... Can't figure out how they did this efficiently from the factory. The parts were completely chromed and the recesses were painted. Too detailed for a masking template and I didn't see any evidence of them spraying the whole part and wiping the edges. I could have used an easier method for sure!
Sprayed two wet coats of SPI epoxy which worked out awesome! It ended up filling most of the shallow pitting marks and I didn't have to go in and sand it level to make them disappear.....a true time saver for sure. Followed that up with a few coats of Argent Silver before unmasking the chrome surfaces.
Put it all back together again.......and now I'm happy with it. LOL. My own worst enemy sometimes. Either that or I have to stop raising my expectations as I move along this project.
64Rivi
Promoted Users
The hood has two recesses that run along a raised cowl in the middle. Those recesses dive into the cowl and have cowl vents in them. They are also chromed and Buick would paint the middle to match the paint color. I found a set with decent chrome. Taped up the chrome surfaces and blasted the centers and back for paint. Shot them with two coats of epoxy followed by two coats of black and 3-coats of clear.
The fender wells have all been previously painted and I wasn't going to do anything further with them however, I had some overspray make it past my masking when I was doing poly primer and it was bothering the crap out of me so decided to do them again. After reading a lot on this forum about using Raptor Liner, I decided to give it a whirl. Good call....came out awesome! (thanks again for all the great knowledge and experience you all share on this forum!).
Hit everything with 180 grit and covered the car and masked. Sprayed 2-coats of epoxy followed by 2-coasts of Raptor. That stuff was almost as fun to spray as the spatter trunk paint.
The fender wells have all been previously painted and I wasn't going to do anything further with them however, I had some overspray make it past my masking when I was doing poly primer and it was bothering the crap out of me so decided to do them again. After reading a lot on this forum about using Raptor Liner, I decided to give it a whirl. Good call....came out awesome! (thanks again for all the great knowledge and experience you all share on this forum!).
Hit everything with 180 grit and covered the car and masked. Sprayed 2-coats of epoxy followed by 2-coasts of Raptor. That stuff was almost as fun to spray as the spatter trunk paint.
64Rivi
Promoted Users
It was still too early for the wheels and tires but I had to make some decisions the brakes so needed to take the plunge now so I could figure out some fitment issues on these first generation Riviera's. The rear axel hubs are larger than most and don't tend to fit in the hub recess on most aftermarket wheels. The most difficult part however, are the front brakes. Buick used aluminum brake drums in the front and riveted them onto the hub assembly. The rivets get in the way of most wheels lying flat on the hub surface. On top of that, the front hubs are larger and won't fit into most wheels.
Some just do a disc brake conversion at this point but I'm trying to keep the car relatively original aside from a few changes. I wasn't going for the resto-mod look but these cars have big wheel wells so it really demands a bigger wheel (in my opinion). US Mags makes a set of Buick Rally wheels in 20-inch but at $1000 a pop.....it was too rich for my blood....
Ridler makes a wheel as close as I could find in 20-inch to the Buick Rally wheel and couldn't be happier. Plus, I'm stuffing a 20x10 in the rear to fill it up..
Now to get the wheels to fit......
Bought a few carbide burrs and chocked them up in the ol' router to make some room. First some backyard engineering to lock the wheel down (this stump has come in handy straightening bumpers too!).
Some just do a disc brake conversion at this point but I'm trying to keep the car relatively original aside from a few changes. I wasn't going for the resto-mod look but these cars have big wheel wells so it really demands a bigger wheel (in my opinion). US Mags makes a set of Buick Rally wheels in 20-inch but at $1000 a pop.....it was too rich for my blood....
Ridler makes a wheel as close as I could find in 20-inch to the Buick Rally wheel and couldn't be happier. Plus, I'm stuffing a 20x10 in the rear to fill it up..
Now to get the wheels to fit......
Bought a few carbide burrs and chocked them up in the ol' router to make some room. First some backyard engineering to lock the wheel down (this stump has come in handy straightening bumpers too!).
64Rivi
Promoted Users
And now I'm trying to button up the exterior so I can start working on the interior soon.
Fitting all the exterior molding has been another unexpected chore. I had to go back with a needle file for all the molding clip holes to open them up so the clips would fit for the belt line, horse shoe and sail panel moldings. Cleaned them all up and brushed in 2-coats of epoxy to keep it all sealed and prevent any future problems.
Of course, the stainless steel didn't fit exact so between cleaning up miters and gentle pushing and pulling...they finally started to fall in place.
Fitting all the exterior molding has been another unexpected chore. I had to go back with a needle file for all the molding clip holes to open them up so the clips would fit for the belt line, horse shoe and sail panel moldings. Cleaned them all up and brushed in 2-coats of epoxy to keep it all sealed and prevent any future problems.
Of course, the stainless steel didn't fit exact so between cleaning up miters and gentle pushing and pulling...they finally started to fall in place.