Work truck during week,paint project for weekends


Hugh Hef

I have a Chevy Crew Utility body. New to me, paint is failing in random spots ( adhesion to factory primer problem). Probably taking the Bed (utility) off for a short period, figure I can prep,repair and paint rear panel of crew and front of utility box, put it back together and go from there. I can't lay the thing up long enough to do the whole job. Weekends or 3 or 4 days max, a solo effort.

I am thinking epoxy, high build and SS, in white. Would like to clear the whole thing when repairs and SS is complete. Is this possible? I am going to have to roll the dice on the adhesion problem. No time to blast or strip, not in the cards. So with that, what is a reasonable solution to tackle the adhesion issue. If this were a resto project I wouldn't be thinking this way. Thanks.
If the primer is adhered well to the car but the paint is not adhering to the primer, then you will need to take it down to the primer and shoot your epoxy. That being said, taking it to the primer is just one step from taking it to bare metal which is always the best when dealing with failing paint.
It's possible to strip, prime and paint a portion of a vehicle in a 3 or 4 day session, especially a work truck. If the bed is to be off once for a short period, that is what should be done to the back panel. Subsequent panels can be done as able. If the vehicle has paint adhesion problems, it's a waste of time to only sand and paint it, especially on the horizontal surfaces. Strip and prime panels 1-3 at a time, such that they can be completed over a weekend, then final sand and paint the rest of it when able.
In the time it takes to wait for epoxy to dry enough for high build, you could strip to metal and skip that step. No need for high build unless there is major body repair done. Strip with 80#, epoxy and paint. Quicker, cheaper, and better final product.
Well, I was going to have a truck taken out on the hook 2 weeks ago and glad I didn't, it's going to be a donor for two front doors. If I can gather up 2 rear doors (crew cab), I will be in business I think as far as being able to handle the job, while using the truck. Going to get my SPI order together, rear panel of cab should be first up.
If I understand your plan, just be aware that it might not be good to assume that the donor doors will fit without tweaking. You don't say the year, but with Chevy there was a long stretch where there was no adjustment because the hinges were welded on, the only way to move anything was by bending.
Yeah, good idea to dry fit the doors. It is a 2006. Looks like new rockers needed, going to need to know if the door reveals are the same, especially the bottom clearance.
Any ideas on the Chassis? Truck is 3500 series with a very,very tall frame, that makes it very visible. Truck came from PA so it is a mess. Not sure that getting it to a blaster is practical at all (from the cab on back,when the body is off temporarily)) given the time constraints,could be possible maybe. And for sure the cab is staying bolted on. Truck is too big and heavy to get on any lift that I might have access to, ramps at best and on my back.
And what paint for chassis? Black Epoxy?
It sounds like you can't really do anything meaningful, I'd pressure wash it, brush the loose stuff off with a wire brush, and undercoat it once it was dry, just keep a spray can of undercoat around to touch it up here and there going forward. Trying to half-ass epoxy it is not really going to be helpful and might make it look worse. Since the epoxy is semi-gloss, it will tend to show up defects.
I am starting to hunt down sandblast equipment. I have access to a 175 cfm tow behind and I have a buddy that has been tripping over a 200 lb pot and hose in his garage, it might pay to buy what is needed to get the gun working.
If I can find a spot to blast without wearing out my welcome, I might bust my butt and go for blasting and shooting the chassis and truck body. Might set up the body on a roll-tisserie.
That's the way to do it right, although trying to get everywhere with all the suspension and mechanicals still in can be very, very difficult.
That's the way to do it right, although trying to get everywhere with all the suspension and mechanicals still in can be very, very difficult.
You are right, might have to remove fuel tanks and some heat shields, but from cab back should get 90% of a decent job. Under-cab is iffy, but have access to heavy equipment there, probably can figure a way to get it up on heavy cribbing and do that in stage 3. The advantages of doing both processes myself,with no one else to schedule or hold up.