Window opening and installing glass in 1977 firebird trans am

[Schroeder]

I'm attempting to make flush mount glass with stock style glass from auto city classic. The front windshield on the 2nd gen fbodys is fairly easy to make flush mount: the a-pillar skin has to get a little wider to come in to the sides of the windshield and the windshield is pushed up to meet the roof skin. Then it's propped up on the bottom. The windshield channel needs to have flat stock welded in to bring the surface of the windshield flush with the surface of the roof skin and a-pillar skins.


The question I have for the front windshield is how thick the spacer needs to be. 1/4" spacer will bring the surface of the glass flush to the surface of the roof skin and a-pillar skins. What allowance in thickness do I need to allow for urethane though? Does a good urethane installation require 1/8" thickness? Is it liquid thin between the channel and the glass itself? Does the small remaining gap between the edge of the glass and the edge of the roof and a-pillar skins then get filled with urethane?


The rear window on the car is where more questions come up. The rear window wraps around the width of the car onto the quarters. I could make the top and bottom of the glass flush by putting in a spacer between the glass and flange it sits on just like on the front. Next I'd have to make the bottom filler panel come up to meet the bottom of the windshield. This would extend onto the quarter window flange. On the outer sides of the car though the window opening and channel would have to have the channel flange cut down to bring the quarter skins in flush with the surface of the wrapped around window glass. I tried this on the old quarters before I replaced them, and it didn't look right. Almost the entire window channel in the quarters needed cut out.

Has anyone used stock glass on a 75-81 fbody to make flush mount glass on the rear of their car? If so, do you have pics and can you elaborate on the process? Im not seeing. How this can be done on the rear and am thinking I'll have to settle for a wide EPDM rubber seal to go around the perimeter of the window. I don't want to use the cheesy trim that came stock from GM.

 

[Schroeder]

Anyone have any opinions, reference card, or input? I lean towards thinking this can't be done.

 

[rgfast]

F-bodies are my passion, and I don't believe I've ever seen the rear window done on 75 and newer 2gens.
The ones I've seen done also had custom cut glass kits to fill the openings and shims to raise glass flush

 

[dhutton01]

A thick EDPM seal will look worse than the stock moldings imho. Powder coated factory moldings look pretty good.

Don

 

[Schroeder]

F-bodies are my passion, and I don't believe I've ever seen the rear window done on 75 and newer 2gens.
The ones I've seen done also had custom cut glass kits to fill the openings and shims to raise glass flush

thanks for the reply. I don't see how it would be possible without increasing the width of the rear glass (fesler aftermarket kit). I had to ask though. You guys out here are on the interwebz are way more skilled at this stuff than I am, so I thought I'd ask.

A thick EDPM seal will look worse than the stock moldings imho. Powder coated factory moldings look pretty good.

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Don

Appreciate the opinion, Don. I can see your point. I have aftermarket quarters and a roof skin though. I'd have to screw little trim screws into these pieces to mount the trim clips. I see that as kind of cheesy or "incorrect." I am not buying the harbor freight (or any other) stud welder for this single job to install these trim studs. Is it possible I could get them and TIG them on? I don't see why not. On here or on another forum someone suggested getting the trim screws and then making sure there was a bit of seam sealer at their base to prevent moisture and dirt from getting in the hole and creating a rust point. I still am not fond of this. I also have the quarters welded on, so if I decide to TIG on the studs at this point I will no longer be able to properly coat the back side of the window channel where the stud was welded to prevent rust. I know people repair and patch panels everyday where after the repair is complete the back side is inaccessible for rust prevention (like a rocker panel patch), but I've been trying to get the back side of everything coated to prevent rust. Adding the studs now would be a change in direction. It's doable though if I can TIG 'em on. I saw a high-end 70 camaro with an EPDM seal around the windows, and I liked the look. It seems that it's 50/50 though on whether someone thinks it looks alright or thinks it looks bad.

 

[dhutton01]

TIG welding those studs would be a nightmare. I’ve used the screws on many builds. A little dab of seam sealer or panel adhesive and you are good to go. I have a stud welder and the studs but I’ve never seen the need to do it any differently. Those screws are there to stay once installed.

Given that your car will most likely rarely see rain and never see snow and salt your obsession with rust may be a little over the top imho.

Don

 

[Schroeder]

TIG welding those studs would be a nightmare. I’ve used the screws on many builds. A little dab of seam sealer or panel adhesive and you are good to go. I have a stud welder and the studs but I’ve never seen the need to do it any differently. Those screws are there to stay once installed.

Given that your car will most likely rarely see rain and never see snow and salt your obsession with rust may be a little over the top imho.

Don

Alrighty. I'll mock the EPDM up. If it doesn't look good I'll go with the trim screw method. Thanks.