A
adrynalinjunkie
I almost have the entire chevelle ready for sealer and base. I have been spraying a round of gray 2K then blocking with 220. Then spraying a round of buff color 2K and blocking with 320.
I am going to be using HOK PBC32 Tangelo Orange Pearl for my base which looks WAY better over white. I have seen cars at shows and at the track that have Tanngelo orange over gray primer and it is way too dark.
Should I just shoot the white epoxy sealer mixed 1:1:1 with reducer over the buff 2K and then proceded to base after a few hours (to get maximum adhesion)
Or will the %50 reduced white epoxy be too transparent?
If that is the case I will shoot 2 coats of reduced epoxy as a sealer and let it set over night and then wet sand with 600 before I base and clear.
If I do shoot 2 coats of white epoxy as a sealer to make sure the car is white enough, how much should I reduce the epoxy still %20 ?
Also if I do go to all the extra work of shooting 2 coats of sealer and then sanding before base would it be worth it to cut the sealer flat again with 400 dry on a block before wet sanding with 600?
Or would the reduced epoxy still be flat enough to simply wet sand due to the thinning effect of the reducer in the epoxy?
I am going to be using HOK PBC32 Tangelo Orange Pearl for my base which looks WAY better over white. I have seen cars at shows and at the track that have Tanngelo orange over gray primer and it is way too dark.
Should I just shoot the white epoxy sealer mixed 1:1:1 with reducer over the buff 2K and then proceded to base after a few hours (to get maximum adhesion)
Or will the %50 reduced white epoxy be too transparent?
If that is the case I will shoot 2 coats of reduced epoxy as a sealer and let it set over night and then wet sand with 600 before I base and clear.
If I do shoot 2 coats of white epoxy as a sealer to make sure the car is white enough, how much should I reduce the epoxy still %20 ?
Also if I do go to all the extra work of shooting 2 coats of sealer and then sanding before base would it be worth it to cut the sealer flat again with 400 dry on a block before wet sanding with 600?
Or would the reduced epoxy still be flat enough to simply wet sand due to the thinning effect of the reducer in the epoxy?