white specs in universal clear after polishing

C

coyote

i sprayed this car 2 weeks ago with reduced spi epoxy for my sealer, waited aout an hour, shot 3 coats of hok kbc brandy wine kandy base,waited 2 hours and shot 3 coats of universal clear with slow reducer waited 30 minutes between coats, it was a dry day low humidity and about 75 in the booth, every thing looked good untill i started to compound with wool pad and 3m perfectic compound, have these small white specs in the clear my guess is solvent pop but not shure how can i fix this or am going to have to re shoot the whole car? the worst part is on the deck lid.
 
If white, it is moisture but the good news is they rise to usually the top coat of clear, so wet sand out with 800 or a 1000 then convert the scratches with 1500 and buff.
If time allows, throw in sun for day before wet sanding and it will make the job easier to fix.
Of course in a perfect world, I would let car set in sun for 2-3 days, wet sand out and put car in sun a full day and buff the next.
 
To avoid it in the future make sure you eliminate the water in your air lines. Proper air line layout and a good water filter then a oil aerosols coalescing filter will help a great deal. Drain your tank daily and if your budget allows install a dessicant dryer as the final step.
 
I hit this once on a black car. Either the temp was too high in the booth or I sprayed the coats too close together, or both! Had solvent pop that wasn't visible until buffing. Once I buffed, the polish got into the tiny solvent pop holes and showed up clear as day. Had to power wash it to get them out.
 
mitch_04;n72685 said:
I hit this once on a black car. Either the temp was too high in the booth or I sprayed the coats too close together, or both! Had solvent pop that wasn't visible until buffing. Once I buffed, the polish got into the tiny solvent pop holes and showed up clear as day. Had to power wash it to get them out.
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thats exactly what i was thinking , my lines are dry i drain my tank every day and just installed a new dessicant filter and had a bulb type filter at the gun, i think i layed it down to thick and didnt reduce the clear
 
Barry is the guy that knows the difference between solvent pop and iso clumping.

Are the specs white to start with , or are you filling a clear crater with polishing compound. big difference in what you are dealing with.
 
there are no white specs in the clear they only showed up after i started to polish with compound
 
this is how it looked befor i wet sanded and polished no spects whatsoever, i let the car sit in the sun befor i wet sanded and after i sanded
 
Being a candy and as much as I would not want to have to do color repairs, I think I would sand with 800 and let it breathe for awhile then shoot a few more coats of clear. My reasoning is if you shot three coats of clear and sand two coats off to cure the problem it doesn't leave much left-and there's always the potential for rubbing through to color. They always turn out better with flow coats anyways.

I've had candy jobs do the same thing, the worst one was about 17 years ago....a wine colored PPG radiance job with all PPG products, 7 coats of gold global BC, 7 coats of wine dyed D895 intercoat, and three coats of D893 PPG clear went on that car-I spent the whole day with the gun in my hand. It was just too much material being applied in one session.
 
Senile Old Fart;n72690 said:
Barry is the guy that knows the difference between solvent pop and iso clumping.

Are the specs white to start with , or are you filling a clear crater with polishing compound. big difference in what you are dealing with.
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Did I step on some toes? Breaking out the bold!
 
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