Which clear is most Rock Hard?

W

Wetstuff

I have an odd job I do - repair/refinish surfboards and standup paddle boards. On paddle boards you swing a long handled paddle along the side - resulting in frequent 'paddle strikes'. ..nicks and chips. Once all cleaned up, it would be nice if there was a clear that 'defended' the skin better than BC. (they do sell things like Collision Tape - but they get nasty fast) Suggestions appreciated. Thanks. Jim
 
kind of a conundrum, hard cracks and fractures easier, might not see them right away, but eventually it will come off in flakes, something that stays rubbery is going to last longer.
 
Just a thought don't know what the exact requirements are of your customer, after you refinish have you thought of adding a clear vinyl wrap? That would probably have the best resistance of anything and could be replaced as needed.
 
I would recommend a good clear with a clear bra type product over it. The clear bra wears like nails and can be replaced as needed.
 
Thanks all... there is 'product' called Rail Tape in varieties of the same theme. I got a roll of 3mm Collision Tape which is kinda like 'tear-away' for MC helmets. CT, I do have that 3M stuff - just never used it. Also, got some 3M clear bra that's about 10mm. You need a lot of heat to form it over tight radius ..and if the Chinese paint under is not secure ...the paint comes also when you attempt to remove the rail tape. Here's some faux carbon vinyl. (I have a sign plotter/cutter)

carbon_rail.jpg


I've done one 'clear' already with 2k-in-can ..it looked good but want to up my game. Typical newbie I ordered 'Euro 4-1'* ..when maybe I should have got 1-1. I'll shoot it anyway - I have good tools ..and it will make the typical matte finish look a lot better anyway. I'll post it soon. Thanks again.

Jim

*somehow remembering hearing the clear on Euro cars are harder ..with not a clue what harder really means?1 Urban myths are hard to kill...
 
Wetstuff said:
Thanks all... there is 'product' called Rail Tape in varieties of the same theme. I got a roll of 3mm Collision Tape which is kinda like 'tear-away' for MC helmets. CT, I do have that 3M stuff - just never used it. Also, got some 3M clear bra that's about 10mm. You need a lot of heat to form it over tight radius ..and if the Chinese paint under is not secure ...the paint comes also when you attempt to remove the rail tape. Here's some faux carbon vinyl. (I have a sign plotter/cutter)

carbon_rail.jpg


I've done one 'clear' already with 2k-in-can ..it looked good but want to up my game. Typical newbie I ordered 'Euro 4-1'* ..when maybe I should have got 1-1. I'll shoot it anyway - I have good tools ..and it will make the typical matte finish look a lot better anyway. I'll post it soon. Thanks again.

Jim

*somehow remembering hearing the clear on Euro cars are harder ..with not a clue what harder really means?1 Urban myths are hard to kill...
Click to expand...
Well, the SPI Euro clear does cure to a harder finish than the Universal. So you're on the right track with what you want to do.
 
Definitely do not want "hard" when impacts against the material are concerned. Maybe a better word would be "tough," where there is the right balance between flexibility and abrasion resistance. Personally I feel the Universal Clear best fits the profile of a "tough" clear. We've had enough assembly mishaps to know that UC has saved our asses on more than one occasion, where some paints would leave a huge chip, the UC has a tiny marred spot instead. Of course, no clear can take the place of a good system from substrate to topcoat, but all things being equal, UC is among the best I've seen.
 
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