What to use on freshly buffed Universal clear to remove smudge marks after assembly.

RayH

Promoted Users
I finally got all my body parts based , cleared and buffed. Clear is less than 6 months old and parts haven’t seen much sun. Got all my parts back on the car but have smudges everywhere from assembly. I searched the forum and saw that 2 products was recommended, Presta spray and shine 130922 and 3D bead it up 440. Are these the right products?
 
I am not following what you mean by a smudge mark. Are they actual scuffs of the clear? If they are then I would go over it again with polish and a black foam pad.
 
Don, they are just finger prints, can clean them off with a micro fiber towel but got to rub a little.
 
Also thanks for your advice on fixing my base coat issue and gun settings for clear.
 

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Thanks guys! It has been a long 2 yr process but without the members of this forum who take the time to answer questions and provide guidance I’m not sure I would have been successful.
 
Thanks guys! It has been a long 2 yr process but without the members of this forum who take the time to answer questions and provide guidance I’m not sure I would have been successful.
Wow, looks incredible! I'm terrified of taking mine apart and getting it all back together painted. How was it getting the fenders and doors on without scratching stuff?

My nightmare below

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Thanks Crash, so the products I mentioned are ok to use? JT had no issues reassembling the car, once everything was fitted and gapped I used a 1/8 drill bit to drill alignment holes on my fenders, trunk hinges, hood hinges and door hinges. The key to no damage is have a couple of extra sets of hands to help assemble and tape all edges to avoid making contact with paint.
 
@RayH , sorry that I didn't notice you mentioned it already, I should try reading!
You can use 710 as suggested, but in my shop that is more for something like cleaning prior to striping or decal application. If none of that is to be done, and the surface is done and ready for presentation, nothing is better than a detail spray imo.
 
JT, one area you need to be very careful is on the drip rail, minimum paint. If the drip rail has too much paint you won’t get the trim back on it. On mine I shot just enough epoxy for coverage and then masked it off during the priming and paint stages.
 
Wow, looks incredible! I'm terrified of taking mine apart and getting it all back together painted. How was it getting the fenders and doors on without scratching stuff?

My nightmare below

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Forum member Chevman did a nice write up here on how to index your hinges to help make reassembly easier and not have to try and line everything up after it's painted. You can find it by searching threads that he started. I have it bookmarked as well. I'll see if I can find it and link it here when I do.
 
 
JT, one area you need to be very careful is on the drip rail, minimum paint. If the drip rail has too much paint you won’t get the trim back on it. On mine I shot just enough epoxy for coverage and then masked it off during the priming and paint stages.

Smart man. I'm doing that exact same method on my drip rails to assure I can get my trim molding back on. I watched a guy fold his drip rail trim molding in half trying to get it on due to excessive paint build up. I felt bad for the guy but, I did warn him what could happen when he was prepping the car for paint.
 
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