Weird situation

T

Todd Gatman

Promoted Users
Been restoring my car. New panels everywhere, sprayed with SPI epoxy (really impressed with the primer, but you know that). So now it's time for some regular primer and the beginning of prep for the base coat. I had every intention of using SPI 2k regular build primer and so now comes the weird part. It's Christmas time and I have a relative who works at an automotive paint supply store. My Father wants to buy my primer for me for Christmas so he and my relative have concluded that they want to provide PPG K38. I'm sure that's a good product and it's tough to turn down the generosity, but I can't really imagine that that product could work better than an SPI primer. Does anybody have any experience with this product vs the SPI. Spending the extra money for PPG seems like a waste to me.
Thanks for the help....
 
Your in kinda a tough spot. You might want to try talking to your dad about how you would like to stick with one manufacturer for your products so that in the event something goes wrong you won't be trying to figure which Co.'s products failed and you will know who to contact to assist with any issues or questions and that you know that doing it that way you are assured that everything plays well with each other and it is part of a system since you already started with SPI you would like to finish with it.. Just a thought.
 
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Maybe talk Dad into giving you the $ that will cost him on PGG and let you buy from SPI. Win Win . Every one happy. ( Barry also )
 
Give him the phone number to SPI and the PN of the paint you need and let him order it himself....
 
Just finish it with Epoxy.It 'builds' fine unless you have a lot of 'trouble going on in which case you need Filler instead of Primer.
You can get White & Black and mix about any shade of Gray you want if your Base requires such.
 
If they insist on providing material from the store, I'd lobby for sandpaper instead of paint.
 
An a nice set Of DuraBlocks.
Which btw need to be 'blocked' on some 'paper on Glass to affirm being Flat because most Ain't.
100_0587.jpg
 
Left to Right. 320,150,80. Just rub the Block over a dusty panel and run It back and forth over the Glass with light pressure in the Center.
I used an old entertainment center glass door which I checked with a 4' Level but most any plate glass is Flat but then again,you never know fer sure so just idiot check It first, I have bought Duras and They were SOO out of Flat that I took Them back and exchanged them.I have the AFS's which I love but They need checking too and Always,store your block F-L-A-T,NEVER on,over something because They will 'conform' too when you least 'expect it.
 
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Hey thanks everybody for your time and responses. I concluded that at the end of the day, it's my car so I'm gonna use what I want so SPI it is..... It was a little tough though because my relative basically runs a paint store and he swears the ppg is just the greatest thing ever. Everybody is convinced I'm making a mistake but I don't think so.
I do have a question though. I will use the 2k for final prep. Probably will have some filler work to do too. If I block it to say 3~400 grit can it sit in that condition for a while until I shoot the base coat. Obviously I need to clean it well before the base, but do I need to scuff or something just before the color? I'll be working on it all winter and it will be finished in stages.
 
Todd Gatman said:
Hey thanks everybody for your time and responses. I concluded that at the end of the day, it's my car so I'm gonna use what I want so SPI it is..... It was a little tough though because my relative basically runs a paint store and he swears the ppg is just the greatest thing ever. Everybody is convinced I'm making a mistake but I don't think so.
I do have a question though. I will use the 2k for final prep. Probably will have some filler work to do too. If I block it to say 3~400 grit can it sit in that condition for a while until I shoot the base coat. Obviously I need to clean it well before the base, but do I need to scuff or something just before the color? I'll be working on it all winter and it will be finished in stages.
Click to expand...

Yes, scuff before color, always paint on fresh prep work.
 
"but do I need to scuff or something just before the color?"

Epoxy reduced as a sealer would be ideal before base. If spraying epoxy sealer on sanded 2k, I wouldn't worry about scuffing.
 
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