Water transfer graphics

S

Senile Old Fart

Does anyone here have experiance with this process?

I assume SPI epoxy will stick to Ford plastic valve covers as a black base coat.

I also assume UV clear is compatible for a top coat over the graphics.

Thanks in advance for your input :cool:
 
I have no experience doing this but we sell to about 4-8 companies that do this type of work, on everything from guns, trucks, interior parts, 4 wheelers and about anything else you can think of.
All I know is they buy epoxy, universal clear and flattener.
 
Barryk;19443 said:
I have no experience doing this but we sell to about 4-8 companies that do this type of work, on everything from guns, trucks, interior parts, 4 wheelers and about anything else you can think of.
All I know is they buy epoxy, universal clear and flattener.
Click to expand...

If they are repeat customers your products must work quite well for their application!
 
all of the old harleys i do have water release decals & i topcoat them with the UV. never had an issue , but did have a guy who called me yesterday who ruined a set using ppg 2021. best advice i can give is lightly wetsand the area with 2000 grit so the decals will have a good smooth base to adhere to, you dont want any dust particles or even grainy basecoat under them. let the decals sit overnight before clearing & go kinda light on the first coat of clear. you just want to get them wet enough to seal in on the first coat. too heavy on the first coat can lift or actually run the colors on the decal. if you have any other questions, shoot me a p.m. & i'll get you my cell# & we can talk.

these are all water release:

IMG_3070.jpg
 
I had a guy spray some universal over some carbon looking water graphics and it looked great.
 
sellersrodshop;19445 said:
all of the old harleys i do have water release decals & i topcoat them with the UV. never had an issue , but did have a guy who called me yesterday who ruined a set using ppg 2021. best advice i can give is lightly wetsand the area with 2000 grit so the decals will have a good smooth base to adhere to, you dont want any dust particles or even grainy basecoat under them. let the decals sit overnight before clearing & go kinda light on the first coat of clear. you just want to get them wet enough to seal in on the first coat. too heavy on the first coat can lift or actually run the colors on the decal. if you have any other questions, shoot me a p.m. & i'll get you my cell# & we can talk.

these are all water release:

IMG_3070.jpg
Click to expand...

That is a lot of nice looking sporty tanks!

fyi: Water release and water transfer are 2 different animals. Water transfer is a film that contains an ink coating. You float it on top of water, spray an activator on it, the lower your item through it into the water. The ink transfers to the surface of your item. Wood grain and carbon fiber look are the most popular applications.

[video=youtube;8ieuN_cKYng]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ieuN_cKYng[/video]
 
Last edited:
[video=youtube;8ieuN_cKYng]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ieuN_cKYng[/video]

Tried to add this video in my last post but it must have been lost in hyperspace.

Is this video working? I still do not see it on my pc....
 
I think your best chance for success with the water transfer decals is to shoot one light coat of clear and let it cure up for a few hours or overnight before shooting more clear. A test run would be a great idea. I sprayed over a lot of different decals when shooting bikes for my Cousin a few years ago and I found a lot of decal types would swell when the clear went on and the only way to bury them easily was to shoot some clear and let it lock up overnight, then shoot enough to bury them.
 
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