Wanda basecoat appearance

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ScotyK

Promoted Users
For those of you that spray Wanda, does the base dry a little uneven? I usually spray Standox and it has more of a “silky smooth” appearance. Since Wanda is significantly cheaper than Standox, I wanted to give it a try. I was concerned about metallic control with a cheaper base, so I was careful about applying the coats too wet. If you ask me, it’s not mottled…just uneven sheen. I’m going to let it sit until tomorrow and hit it with some clear and see if that helps. If not, I’ll try mixing the base with some SPI Intercoat clear.
Would love to hear any thoughts/suggestions.
 

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JimC is the Wanda man. Pretty much all he uses for 'paint' iir.
He'll likely be by later. You might search the Forum,wasn't that long ago he was talking about it.
If it's flashed good,spray some g&wr, I use solvent based but either works,on it for a look see.
It gives you a good idea what your base will look like cleared. Your call.
 
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We definitely do not use SPI 700 (water) on basecoat. 710 is okay, though. I think the water based might have a bit of acetone in it, not sure about that though.
 
hmmm, its been some years since i sprayed anything big and flat where i would notice something like that. everything i spray is kind of small but i dont think it typically dries like that. it may depend on the formula though and how much flop controller is added to it since that is basically flattening agent. i do only use spi reducer in it. i tried wanda reducer once and it sux. the metallic control in wanda is really good. it is a polyester base not the economy enamel stuff. the blotchiness may just be an uneven sheen which will disappear when its cleared. one way to tell is wet it down with 710 and take a look at it.
 
Jim C said:
hmmm, its been some years since i sprayed anything big and flat where i would notice something like that. everything i spray is kind of small but i dont think it typically dries like that. it may depend on the formula though and how much flop controller is added to it since that is basically flattening agent. i do only use spi reducer in it. i tried wanda reducer once and it sux. the metallic control in wanda is really good. it is a polyester base not the economy enamel stuff. the blotchiness may just be an uneven sheen which will disappear when its cleared. one way to tell is wet it down with 710 and take a look at it.
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Thanks Jim! Yeah, since this is my first time spraying Wanda, I wanted to practice on a larger panel so I pulled out an old roof skin. I’ll hit it with some 710 or maybe even clear tomorrow. I suspect it might be ok once it gets some clear on it. It looks awesome from all other angles, it’s just the angle in the pic that looks uneven. Interestingly enough, I ended up spraying another section using intercoat clear 1:1 with base and it looks great! Makes me think that it might just be the way the base flashed and once I get some clear on it things will even out. I also felt like Wanda sprayed a little dry.
 
I use Wanda on 50 to 70 % of collision work and like Jim C said it's a polyester base and like Diamont it does spray a tiny bit on the dry side but after clear it is fine.. So does not lay out silky smooth. I also use SPI reducer in the Wanda.
 
I use the waterborne on Clear and dried, scuffed base I am reshooting. Used hok kc20 till spi brought their Line out. My fault for not calling it clearly. Doing ab work I often use wb cleaner because solvent will erase 'things occasionally.:confused:
Appreciate the clarification.
 
The 700 is usually discouraged on base because it will usually bite into base from the acetone in it. Kc20 is a different animal. Closest thing to that and a replacement for it would be windex or glass cleaner. Thats mire of a light detergent. 700 is alcohol, acetone, water, ammonia and prob some other things barry throws in there. My list of cleaners from gentile to strongest…

Mineral spirits
Kc20 / windex
710
700
10:1 mix 700 and fast reducer
Slow reducer / laq thinner / acetone
 
Jim C said:
The 700 is usually discouraged on base because it will usually bite into base from the acetone in it. Kc20 is a different animal. Closest thing to that and a replacement for it would be windex or glass cleaner. Thats mire of a light detergent. 700 is alcohol, acetone, water, ammonia and prob some other things barry throws in there. My list of cleaners from gentile to strongest…

Mineral spirits
Kc20 / windex
710
700
10:1 mix 700 and fast reducer
Slow reducer / laq thinner / acetone
Click to expand...
Saved for future reference!

Don
 
I find the 710 is all I need. Tried the water based once but it destroyed my base coat, where the solvent based does not.
As for Wanda, I used it on a Jeep and didn't have any issues but I only use slow activator and reducer. The thing I didn't like about it was the mixing ratio. I prefer a 1:1 with reducer so I get 2 gallons of ready to spray, rather than 6 quarts.

Lately I have been using Motobase LV for base coats and find it covers great, sprays well and is priced reasonable.
 
Acetone in 700.
Didn't see that coming. Doesn't even have a 'hint of it that I can tell so had no idea of.
I know it's 'different than kc20 and does react to Base in a harsher way and I honestly don't use it much because I always prefer solvent g&wr. However,
Thanks to AAE 'reading the directions' outloud to the class, will try using 700 on my plastic slot body's in hopes of getting better adhesion properties. I can't really use an adpro due to excessive build of it along with base and clear filling my body lines. Actually I just mist the bare body with Reducer to 'soften It a little bit before basing.
Probably 'wrong too but you can't really 600 wet them. LOL..
Thanks Jim, you always have a way of enlightening our evil ways. :cool:
 
700 has its place, we've proven to ourselves that it gets bare metal cleaner than 710, and it also the proper cleaner for bare plastic, TPO and polypropylene in particular. I think we go through about 4 times the 700 as 710, but both are necessary. It's very rare for us to need to wipe down basecoat, as most base coated surfaces don't leave the booth until cleared. But 710 works for that, and also believe it or not, Sprayway glass cleaner.
 
crashtech said:
700 has its place, we've proven to ourselves that it gets bare metal cleaner than 710, and it also the proper cleaner for bare plastic, TPO and polypropylene in particular. I think we go through about 4 times the 700 as 710, but both are necessary. It's very rare for us to need to wipe down basecoat, as most base coated surfaces don't leave the booth until cleared. But 710 works for that, and also believe it or not, Sprayway glass cleaner.
Click to expand...

I'm a firm believer on using Sprayway glass cleaner for my first wipe down after sanding epoxy. It saves the more expensive material 710 before making a final wipe with 710. Before using Sprayway, it would take me at least three wipe downs to get a clean towel using only 710. Now I only have to use one towel that comes up clean after using 710.
 
Didn’t know Sprayway was safe. I do know that Windex glass cleaner leaves something behind. Cleaned a truck with it once and masking tape would not stick! Went immediately back to my 710-700 routine. The water W&GR attacks base.
 
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