I may get flamed as well, that's OK, we all have our opinions and methods.At the risk of getting flamed, I'll ask my questions here before I start a new thread regarding the same issue.
Backstory
I HAVE tried to fix the damage by welding in new metal but due to my bad eyesight, I end up mangling the metal by blowing holes. This happens because I can't see the MIG wire and either miss the metal for the gap or hit the edge and blow it. I have been successful in some areas but I have had to accept that further attempts at butt welding sheet metal will be futile in my case.
Data
- The holes I need to bridge are the result of blowing through when welding-in new metal.
- The holes are all < 1" in any direction measured. (think lacework)
- I have access to both sides of the repair area.
- I plan to epoxy the metal (both sides) before applying any fillers.
- The damage is in non-structural areas and limited to areas that are at most 4" x 4".
- I KNOW this is not "best practice" but I want to eventually finish my car rather than obsess over perfection and proper procedure. If I thought I could do it right, I would.
Questions
- Will the epoxy cement and glass strands method suggested above adhere properly to SPI epoxy within the 7 day window and epoxying over it once done?
- Am I better off using glass filler and epoxying over it once done?
- Are Carbofill or VPA with glass strands added a viable/better option due to their more flexible nature?
- How should prep the epoxy-covered surface to promote adhesion? (this is my main concern, will any of these options stick to SPI epoxy?)
- Which epoxy cement or glass filler should I use for best results?
- Are there any other options not mentioned in this thread?
- I can post "embarrassing" pictures if it will help me get a quality answer.
If anyone reading this lives in or near South Jacksonville FL and is willing to help me in getting the metal repaired correctly, please PM me.
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Emil
The product description for P17 indicates it will adhere to epoxy.Well, at face value here and concerning the original question I'll say that I have never seen any value in kitty hair types of polyester filler. And with a spot like that regular bondo of good quality will affect just as good a repair. But if I had to do this I'd use P17.
Thanks for the idea. The problem I need to overcome is finding a way to clamp the metal while the adhesive cures. The areas are hard to reach or access with clamps.I may get flamed as well, that's OK, we all have our opinions and methods.
In the situation you describe, with the limitations and goals stated, I would do the following;
Grind both sides to bare metal, and ensure it is flat. Cut a patch piece of metal 1/4" larger than the hole, then use 3M panel bond to bond it to the backside. Need a way to apply and keep pressure on it as it cures, ~ 48 hours.
Use regular bondo to fill in and smooth the visible surface.
You may see "printing" in the final finish when it is sitting out in the direct sunlight down the road. But you seemed to be looking for a good enough solution.
This will work and be as strong as a weld, as long as it is not a structural component of the car.
I used this method in a similar situation. I have a stud welder for dent pulling. I welded a stud on the patch and then used Vice grips on the stud to apply pull while the material cured.Thanks for the idea. The problem I need to overcome is finding a way to clamp the metal while the adhesive cures. The areas are hard to reach or access with clamps.
Excellent. I will go the metal and panel bond route. I feel better about this option than the filler and glass option.Since welding is out of the question I’m going to go with the panel bond and a small piece of backer metal as suggested by Dean. No need to clamp it on a non structural patch. The adhesive itself and a little masking tape will hold it in place. A heat lamp will speed the cure.
Don
3M Panel Bonding Adhesive, 08115.Excellent. I will go the metal and panel bond route. I feel better about this option than the filler and glass option.
- What panel bond is the recommended product for this application?