Two epoxy questions

H

hgdmartin

I am taking my 1940 LaSalle down to bare metal one piece at a time. I then DA with 80 grit and spray 2 wet coats of SPI black after SPI w and g remover. So far, I am very pleased with the performance.
Now on to filler. After applying filler, I am spraying 2 more coats and I can still see my bodywork once dry. The filler is sucking up the epoxy, showing every line with clarity. Am I doing something wrong?

Second question deals with rolling SPI. With me doing this myself in my garage or backyard, I would like to try rolling on the big spots so as to not disturb the neighbors. A fender is one thing to spray, the whole car is another. I figure I will be blocking out the imperfections between coats anyway. What is the best type of roller for a smooth, flat finish? I have had decent results using a foam roller, but have heard a short nap may be better. Should I thin before rolling?

My intent is to get the car in a couple of good coats of epoxy for protection. Block it smooth and take it to someone to shoot a final coat of epoxy in a booth. Then drive a bit while I decide the finish color. Once I decide, then I will apply more SPI and start from there.

Thanks in advance for the guidance.
David
 
It is completely normal to see your filler through the first application of primer. It will disappear after the next coat, unless you rub through when blocking.
 
1. Yes your filler will soak up the epoxy.,. This is normal..
2. If you are using epoxy as your blocking primer, then you should be breaking thru to metal and filler as you block on the first round that is!!!
3. After you get the bodywork all sealed up and are not breaking thru when blocking the next prime session will hide those areas. This is because the filler will now be sealed off completely from the subsequent primer sessions.
4. Spray the body and all the parts.. Rolling is just for spot repairs done at dealerships that set overnight before going to the painter to be primed properly
5. Do it in your garage late at night, neighbors shouldnt be an issue then.
6. All refinish products have solvents that flash off at the tip when the product is atomized.. Rolling, while it can be done, is really not at all how these things are supposed to be done.. House paint is made to be rolled.. Not automotive finishes!!

Happy Spraying
 
If you roll it on make sure you don't reduce it, allow ample time between coats-like 8-12 hours would be good. The thing with brushing or rolling is since there's no atomization of the product there ends up being more solvent to evaporate out before it cures well, with spraying the product a percentage of the solvents are lost in the transfer to the panel-hope that makes sense. Brushing and rolling will work but you'll have to deal with the texture irregularities.
 
Bob Hollinshead;9402 said:
If you roll it on make sure you don't reduce it, allow ample time between coats-like 8-12 hours would be good. The thing with brushing or rolling is since there's no atomization of the product there ends up being more solvent to evaporate out before it cures well, with spraying the product a percentage of the solvents are lost in the transfer to the panel-hope that makes sense. Brushing and rolling will work but you'll have to deal with the texture irregularities.
Click to expand...

^Thanks for this post.

I have been reading, searching, and reading.
I would love to spray, but for the small sections I'm doing at a time, the cost of equipment for spraying it 'right' and the hazards of trying to spray, I'm leaning toward just rolling the epoxy.
At this time, the only areas I'm stripping down to metal are the areas needing patch repair and filler.
So, even though I'd like to strip the whole truck down to metal and protect the whole thing in epoxy, I think at this time, I'll just concentrate on the areas needing repair, and then buy the right equipment as I can afford it.
 
ive rolled it just to protect certain spots. one of my rolled sections you can see roller fibers in it. get the right roller!
 
I would think a short nap roller made for "oil based" paints
would work best. Let us know how it works out.
 
Fortunately, some have posted some suggestions on how to spray one panel at a time without such a huge initial financial layout.

So, like I posted in the other thread;
I'll most likely only strip to metal the areas needing bodywork, and then either save up for the right equipment or take a class at the local community college when I'm ready to do the whole truck.
 
Seriously, for priming a panel or two at a time you can get by with a $129 contractor type 110V air compressor and a touchup gun with a 1.0-1.2 fluid tip.
 
Thank you.

I have a nice contractor's emglo that pushes 11 cfm.
Right now I'm looking for someone's old garbage compressor with a larger tank, and then I'll plumb it up to my emglo to get me the air reserve. Sure, I'm micky-rigging it, but it's my only option not having the funds to spend on a big compressor.
 
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