Turbo Primer

  • Thread starter streamlinecollision
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streamlinecollision

We have been experiencing a lot of ringing, sinkage after the fact. Have seen a few jobs we did down the road with really bad sinking on the repair areas. Have a f-150 at the shop now that we did insurance repair on 8 months ago. Truck looked fine when it was painted and three or four days later during assembly & clean up it was still fine upon delivery. Customer has retuned for another insurance repair. He has not noticed the issue but noticed it right away. At first I thought maybe spi epoxy was not left long enough before turbo primer but it is sinking even in areas where there was no epoxy applied. Other than proper flash off and proper dry time. Any thoughts from others?:confused:
 
hmmm its been years since i used the turbo primer but i dont remember it shrinking. of course anything turbo or made faster tends to shrink more than something thats not. have you tried the other primers? i switched back to the high build because its really just as fast as the turbo. same goes for the 2k sealer. i used that for a few years strictly as my primer and no shrinkage there either and it very fast as well. all 2k's shrink to some degree but with proper flash you shouldnt see anything excessive
 
Are you referring to ringing? Such as you spot a one foot area of primer and the edge of the primer is showing the outline?
That if it is, is called mapping and that is the only issue, I have ever had with the 2K primers.

You should be able to slam 3 coats with no flash and not see any shrinkage with naked eye, if activated right???????

Also, if ringing or not, could the activator have been opened and closed over a long period of time and activator getting weak?

The problem I see most with the primers is once the activator get down below 50% in the can and then not used for a while, the activator will start going south pretty fast. I'm talking 1-2 weeks at that point.
 
Those who don't go through a lot of primer in a short time might be better off with regular 2K, which offers half pint activators.
 
The problem I see most with the primers is once the activator get down below 50% in the can and then not used for a while, the activator will start going south pretty fast. I'm talking 1-2 weeks at that point.

Is that with all activated products or just the turbo?
 
Activator is never left open. We use average 1-1/2 gallons a week of grey & black turbo with medium SPI solvent. Temp. never goes below 69F in our shop. No it is not mapping. Sinkage where a repair was done or feathering of OEM coatings. No mapping at primer edge. My original thoughts were we may be applying turbo over SPI epoxy to soon but the same problem where no epoxy was applied. I have asked my prepper to allow more flash off between coats of Turbo hoping it will stop the issue. Would SPI accelerator have any effect as it has been used on some of the jobs?
 
in general the faster you kick the stuff off the worse its gonna be for shrinkage. the accelerator probably isnt helping matters.
 
No, the accelerator would not cause this, as accelerator only changes cure time, not flash.
You have me stumped.

I just thought of something, are you using a low VOC solvent base coat??? (not waterborne).
 
Yes we are using Valspar (low voc) LVB solvent basecoat activated and with Valspar low voc reducer. What are you thinking Barry?
 
I have seen this on a few jobs as well, I started putting down one coat of epoxy over the repair, waiting a hour and then apply the turbo 2k.. It seems it's very minor and mostly noticed on ones that are sanded smooth so there is very little orange peel to hide anything.. The few I saw were primed at night and painted the next morning.. Any more my primers sit a excessive amount of time before paint so I haven't seen this in a long time..
In my case it could easily be a weaker activator, a gallon of primer can last me a long time since I don't do as much body work or collision jobs like I use to. I tend to just toss out the activator if it's questionable.. Not worth the risk.

Doing the one coat of epoxy and waiting a hour to apply the turbo really seemed to solve the issue, I think it just makes for a good barrier coat.
 
I just now seen this again and we have talked on the phone and for the benefit and education for the rest of you at this point we are of the opinion it may be "wicking", although I love the idea of the low voc basecoats and have some in the plant for testing over the last two years, if not used right there can be problems because of thickness.

In the LA, CA area the last six months there has been a real push and the people pushing don't seem to know they are different from regular bases and to make this short the major problem is solvent busting adhesion and the clear coming off anywhere from before it leaves the shop or 30 days later.

Think of it this way, if you wipe the clear on your car with urethane reducer, it will not hurt the clear BUT wet a rag and let it set in a spot for 30 minutes, take the rag off and usually it will look like paint stripper was applied.

If any of you should use this it is important to know, the major solvent is slow and the base thick so first coat is critical, that it get a lot of flash and not be applied to wet because if second coat is applied to fast, it will hold the solvents and it this case "COULD" be the first coat is acting like a wet rage with reducer and is re-flowing to a point the 2K primer and or sealer if not epoxy. At this point it is the only thing that makes sense to him and I but the verdict is still out.
What I have found is when I explain to the painters in LA how to use, ALL the problems stop.
 
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