Turbo primer question

roger1

roger1

Member
I'm using turbo primer for the first time.

Can I paint base over sanded turbo primer without using a sealer?

Or, should I spray a reduced coat of epoxy on it first?

What do you turbo primer users do?
 
You can paint directly over sanded turbo primer and the results will be great but there is some added durability/chip resistance by shooting a sealer coat of epoxy.
 
It depends on what kind of job it is. I have sprayed right over Turbo on production work and even some midrange overalls with great results. I think the difference in adhesion between basing properly and recently sanded 2K and going with a thin seal coat of epoxy is pretty minor, and would only be a factor in places that are subject to stone damage. Where you really would want to do the seal coat for sure is when you are dealing with fully cured epoxy.
 
Thanks guys. Sounds like I should epoxy seal it since this is concerning my hood, fenders and doors of my '55 Bel Air. And, I'm going to do a lot of highway driving with this car.

I went with epoxy for a surfacer for the body of the car and the trunk lid (and epoxy sealed all of that) but I'm painting this car a piece or two at a time and surfacing with epoxy is slowing me down since I have to wait at least until the next day to block. So, I decided to try the Turbo.
 
I can't say personally how much better sealing with epoxy first is versus sanded 2k primer. But I can tell you that activating your basecoat with any of the clearcoat activators will definitely make a difference in adhesion and chip resistance. The last two overalls I did this way have held up very well. The one car in particular was a daily driver that was not pampered in any way and several years later did not have any chips on the hood or fenders.
 
Thanks.
I am using Pro-Spray base and have been activating it using the SPI universal clear activator. I put a cap full when I fill my large cup.
 
Another question.

I've used the turbo primer for final finishing on my doors (they are off the car). I plan to put on a coat of reduced epoxy as a sealer/adhesion coat and the base in the morning.

On the hinge, latch and bottom sides of the doors do I have to scuff every square inch of the turbo? Some of those spots are nooks and crannies and hard to get to in order to scuff them. I don't have any scotchbrite or I would use that. But, I didn't want to take the time to go to the supply store.
 
Depends how long ago you turbo primered them. Sprayed same day, probably not a concern. Longer than that, I would prefer to scuff them to be sure.
 
Thanks guys.

I got 99.5% of it scuffed with 400 but down in some of the nooks and crannies of the door perimeter it's dang near impossible to get with paper.
So, Scotchbrite it? If so what color? And is it better to do it wet or dry?
 
Roger, I always guidecoat turbo primer then I sand the areas that can be sanded and wetscuff the rest with a grey scotchbrite and scuff paste till the guidecoat is gone-this way I know it's all properly prepped. Ajax also works, a red scotchbrite is fine if you're shooting epoxy sealer but I prefer grey. Door hinge areas are usually the worst.
 
Thanks Bob.
What do you use to guide coat it?
I've got some of that black power guide coat. Would it work for using a scotchbrite wet?

Wow. I wouldn't have thought it was that critical to scuff in the small nooks and crannies. I thought the adhesion would be enough in an out of the way area like that. But, evidently not.
 
The adhesion "might" be good enough but I won't chance it. The powdered guidecoat will work for that but I use black primer-over reduced for a mist coat.
 
Ended up trying steel wool dry. It worked really well.
Got lazy and didn't want to make a run to the supply store.
 
Bob Hollinshead;15506 said:
Steel wool has oil on it so it doesn't corrode.
Click to expand...
Oops, I had no idea. Dang, I hope it doesn't give me any problems.
I didn't get any fisheyes or indications of contamination with the reduced epoxy seal coat so I think I'll be alright. :confused:

Doors.jpg
 
Thanks Bob!
As always, you are a big help.

Gotta love that Universal Clear sprayed with an LPH-400!

Driver_Door.jpg
 
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