Tinting 2k high build as guide coat

C

Crash57

New Member
I'm almost ready to seal my 57 Chevy with epoxy primer and then lay down a few coats of 2k high build for blocking. I'm a novice and don't have a shop full of paints or supplies. What specifically can I get to tint my high build instead of using a separate guide coat?
Thanks for your advice, Chris
 
I don’t have a pro shop either but tinting sounds more difficult than just guide coating. To some extent the 2k has a natural guide coat as you can see what’s been sanded and what hasn’t. But that doesn’t highlight scratches.

I use cheap black lacquer spray paint and just dust a coat on. It dries instantly, sands off easily, and doesn’t clog the paper.

Once you block you should guide coat at least once more as you’ll find more imperfections and you don’t get that with tinting.
 
SPI 2k build primer does dry darker on the surface and like Lizer said, acts like a guide coat.

Personally, I like and use 3M Dry Guide coat, as it is easy to apply and is fine enough to get into the smallest of scratches. That and it doesn't clog the sand paper and can be used when wet sanding as well.

One container of the dry guide coat will easily do a couple of complete paint jobs.
 
I concur with 68 Coronet R/T. He advocated that I use dry guide coat when I started my project. It has helped me greatly, and I really like its multipurpose function you can't get from a spray-on guide coat.
 
Thanks for your reply's, I appreciate it. Is it necessary to remove any leftover guide coat before the next application? If so what do you use to remove it? Thanks again.
 
The idea is to block sand all of it off. If you get to metal and still have low spots, the ideally you would try to raise those with a hammer and dolly. If that isn't possible then simply sand the low spot by hand.

My process is to apply two coats of epoxy to the bare metal and let it cure 24 hours. Then I lightly block sand the entire vehicle to reveal the low spots. Work the lows spots in the metal and then apply filler to get things straight. This makes the 2k primer stage much easier.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
The idea is to block sand all of it off. If you get to metal and still have low spots, the ideally you would try to raise those with a hammer and dolly. If that isn't possible then simply sand the low spot by hand.

My process is to apply two coats of epoxy to the bare metal and let it cure 24 hours. Then I lightly block sand the entire vehicle to reveal the low spots. Work the lows spots in the metal and then apply filler to get things straight. This makes the 2k primer stage much easier.
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This is exactly what I do too. Plus if you lose your window for epoxy it’s already sanded.
 
There was a topic on here, about throwing a couple ounces of black lacquer paint in the primer gun and quickly dusting over whatever u just primered. Basically acting as a rattle can. After the primer flashes and before you clean the gun

Me personally I like Mirka over 3m. I feel like they Mirka sticks to the panel better. Just my preference
 
Here is just black rattle can primer as a guide coat. As a newbie I found it to do what it was supposed to do. Easily you could see where it was low and where you missed over gray high build.
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RosharonRooster said:
There was a topic on here, about throwing a couple ounces of black lacquer paint in the primer gun and quickly dusting over whatever u just primered. Basically acting as a rattle can. After the primer flashes and before you clean the gun

Me personally I like Mirka over 3m. I feel like they Mirka sticks to the panel better. Just my preference
Click to expand...
The Mirka is great!
 
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