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Thinning U-POL Raptor

#1
I have decided that I am going to coat the exterior of my old jeep with Raptor Liner. UPS dropped off my first box of liner this morning. Going to be shooting the bumpers, body armor, fender flares, and running boards with black in the out of the bottle setup with the schutz gun. Looking to achieve the traditional bedliner look. My bodyshop guy mentioned some people shooting it reduced through a hvlp gun to get a smoother finish. I'm thinking this is what I am going to do for the rest of the sheetmetal. It's a ranch jeep so it will get scratched up. It just makes sense.

Has anyone done this? What percentage did you reduce it to? What size tip did you use? Thinking I may just try it through a Harbor Freight gun so if it sets up on me or gets messed up I'm out $20 bucks. I know it won't be smooth, but looking for as smooth as I can get. Color will be tinted khaki. Jeep has a nice khaki that I like on newer models. I've looked on youtube and google, with lots of different opinions. Figure I would check somewhere that I trust the opinions I'll get.
 
#3
I have several HF guns. One that has become a parts gun, but still has a useable tip. Thinking I'll bore that one out. May bore it up to 2.0mm and have it ready in case the 1.4mm won't flow. I'm prepared for some shrink. I am not expecting a perfectly flat finish, just don't want it to look rough like a bedliner. I suppose I'll know more about the product after I shoot the bumpers and body armor with the raptor.
 
#4
Its just drilling and reaming and lapping the needle to the air cap. There also is a different point angle on the bigger guns. I cant find the 3.0 gun I bought, but I got an ed roth card with it. There are w-77's on ebay for 17.85 with 2.0 2.5 and 3.0 tips, but does not sound like you have time to wait for it.
 
#5
Hi, Aggie. I've spray reduced Raptor Liner with a purple HF gun several times now and I've been very happy with the results. I used a drill press to drill out the spray tip to about 2.0mm (got the gun for only $10, so what the hell). If you do a search, you can find a UPOL document for mixing the Raptor liner by weight, not just volume (there are a few different versions of their instruction manual out there, here's one for the tintable stuff, which is what I used, tinting it with SPI Med Red base coat). You can thin it by as much as 10%. I did that and use SPI Urethane Reducer for it.
I also did a YouTube video on my initial spray, which I show the mixing process and all, which you can find here. I've done two or three more, but this was the first that goes into more detail.

Good luck. I was very happy with the outcome and I think you will be, too.
 
#6
Hi, Aggie. I've spray reduced Raptor Liner with a purple HF gun several times now and I've been very happy with the results. I used a drill press to drill out the spray tip to about 2.0mm (got the gun for only $10, so what the hell). If you do a search, you can find a UPOL document for mixing the Raptor liner by weight, not just volume (there are a few different versions of their instruction manual out there, here's one for the tintable stuff, which is what I used, tinting it with SPI Med Red base coat). You can thin it by as much as 10%. I did that and use SPI Urethane Reducer for it.
I also did a YouTube video on my initial spray, which I show the mixing process and all, which you can find here. I've done two or three more, but this was the first that goes into more detail.

Good luck. I was very happy with the outcome and I think you will be, too.
That looks awesome! I wonder if you reduce it to 10% if it would flow through a 1.4mm tip??

I like the final result. FYI, I just drilled out my cap. 2.0mm. Did it freehand because my drill press access is an hour round trip. We shall see how it holds up.
 
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#7
I think drilling it out was a better option. The stuff is at least as thick as SPI's regular build primer, and I'm spraying that with a 2.2mm tip.
That being said, the Raptor Liner is very forgiving. While I did get some runs in spots, I paused or hiccuped and I knew it would happen when I did (unlike runs I've gotten with epoxy where it was more of a surprise). I just hosed that stuff on in some spots. Here's another picture of the texture that I ended up with, more close up with a 1" chip brush for scale.

I will say that the texture seems to have to set up. Kind of hard to explain, but the texture doesn't really come out until it's had time to dry, especially with the first coat. There was quite a bit of time between my first and second uses of the stuff and I thought I had messed something up until I gave it the hour to dry.

Good luck,
Chris
 

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#8
Well I'm all set to shoot the components with the black Raptor, if the weather would ever cooperate. We had super cold temps (for Central Texas in March) last week, now its too humid and sporadically raining. The two days that were perfect for shooting it I couldn't do it because I was otherwise engaged in gainful employment. Oh well, I guess I'll get to it eventually. I did manage to drop one bottle of the material as I was taking it out of the box. Of course, it split the bottom. I duct taped it up so hopefully it will endure being mixed and shot. I guess since it is a siphon gun the bottle doesn't get pressurized so it shouldn't blow out of the bottom.
 
#9
I agree with your thoughts on the bottle, as long as it doesn't leak since you'll thin it out when you mix it up. You need to shake it REALLY, REALLY good (I stirred for a while) and still had some clumps of unmixed stuff to break up.

Good luck when you get there and please post some results!
 
#10
Well, the raptor is shot. I shot the black 7 days ago using the shutz gun and the bottle. very flat learning curve. Easy easy and very forgiving. I set my regulator and tried to keep my distance uniform. I shot the tintable raptor today, reduced 10% through a modified HVLP gun. once I got the gun set right on the fan and material, I ran with it. I am beyond pleased with the results. I'll post some pictures soon.

Several things that I learned....this stuff is very forgiving. it is hard to get it to sag or run. keep a consistent distance and do it all at one time, environmental conditions will create noticeable differences in outcome. it is not necessary to lap the needle. have a small paintbrush handy to touch up any holidays or areas that get missed or lift when you pull the paint. I set my air at 55psi for both the black (schutz gun) and the hvlp.

I grabbed an extra gallon can from the paint store when I got my tint. I dumped all 4 bottles of tintable raptor into the can. I measured 100mL of urethane reducer into a mixing cup and divided it between the bottles. I shook them up and dumped into the can. I was able to get almost all of the material out of the bottle. When I mixed it, I prepared about 21oz per batch. I filled hardener to the amount, then added the tinted and reduced mix to the total mix line. Mixed well, filled the cup half full, and shot away.

For reference, on a CJ7, it took 2 bottles of black, non-reduced through the schutz gun for front and rear bumper, step rails, rear body armor, windshield hinges, hood hinges, cowl cover, upper lip of the tub, and the "Jeep" on the tailgate. It took approximately 2.5 bottles of tinted and reduced bedliner for the remainder of the tub/hood/grille/front fenders/ windshield.

Overall, very pleased with the results. Looking forward to how it holds up.
 

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