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Spray Lining And Coatings

So far all I have sprayed is the back of the fenders and don't like it. Very hard to mix (directions confusing) no directions on how to adjust that hopper gun. First coat I sprayed went on too heavy and I had runs plus over spray goes everywhere. The next problem is tape doesn't stick to it so we will have to spray it after the car is painted which I'm not crazy about doing.
I'm still watching these threads, figuring out what to replace SPI bedliner with. Looks like "SLC" is not going to be it, especially if tape won't stick.
Any updates on this? What has everyone been using?

Barry had mentioned selling the formula for someone else, IIRC. Any updates on that either?
No sense in starting a new thread, so I'll tack on to this one. I will be starting a 53 chevy truck build and need a recommendation for undercoating of the fenders and under the cab. I planned on using lizardskin inside the cab for heat and noise suppression. Not sure if that's suitable for under the fenders. This stuff looks real good, http://www.linex.com/ Not DIY though. $40K in equipment needed. The local installer estimated about $10/sq ft. to apply the stuff to my parts. Anybody have a recommendation for an alternative? Preferable DIY.
Also, I asked Barry about reviving his bed liner product but was told the ingredients are real nasty and most don't want to deal with the chemicals needed.


Registered Users
I'm using raptor right now on a truck. It's tintable to whatever color you want. Uses regular base coat with the binder left out. Easier to spray than I thought it would be.
On Rusty428cj, Tony, Elwood, Bob & Crashtech asked or stated: I used Raptor, SEM, SL&C and Qwik Liner cartridges also. I also had 2 spray-on lining, Line-X dealerships do work. One used stuff labeled SLC116SP (in a Spray-Lining & Coatings drum) instead of Line-X Ultra for 1/2 way up jeep + rocker panels. The SL&C stuff cost more than Line-X but was supposedly stronger. Price with that dealer was $16/ sq ft. I finally searched, "Comparison: Top DIY Spray on Truck Bedliner Kits Quality, Price, Coverage, Value". I got this verifiable report with all these brands. It turned out that duplicates of most or all manual mixes, or cartridges or whats called plural component proportioner polyurea via SLC or SL&C are just lower priced (I checked eBay, Amazon, online stores & parts stores too). On Rusty if you used one of those hoppers with SLC stuff, that happened with me also. I thinned it approx 10% with Lacquer thinner, used middle sized tip - perfect (see few pics- all with hopper or backpack deal). Cartridge was exactly same as Qwik Liner- I sold that ($450) gun for $275- it sucked. Static mixing tubes fail easily. they loaned me Backpack which worked great but hoppers are included which is less than over $2000 for backpack deal.


That is a nice looking gun. It appears that Lizzard Skin is a 1-part material but even if not, "Preferred wet film thickness is 15-20 mils" stated on the instructions of Lizzard is like a coat or 2 of paint. Spray-on Lining polyurea, especially quality bedliner is likely much thicker, i.e. more viscous than Lizzard or paint. That pickup tube in that gun won't easily pull "up" a thicker, high viscosity material like polyurea. Those urethane's can be thinned, however so it will suffice better than those cheap guns from Raptor or SEM or other DIY stuff. The Spray-Lining & Coating stuff atomized through a similar Binks (to get tight spots) see pic with a some thinner added.


i have shot gals of bed liner through this gun. you can shoot any of the heavy bed liners through it.
lizardskin is as heavy as any of the bed liners . this gun is designed to shoot heavy materials . the pickup tube is twice as big as the binks .


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I didn't use it. I probably did it wrong but I got overspray everywhere even though I sprayed it outside and had runs and it looked terrible. Very hard for me to mix and did not want to take a chance on a painted car. I used Lizard Skin followed with a couple coats of SPI black epoxy.