Spray Gun Questions

D

deto326

Hey all

First off I will tell you all where I am with my painting as of now. I sprayed a coat of epoxy PPG Omni (which I won't use again, changing to SPI) and I got some fisheyes, sprayed a second coat of epoxy and it did cover some but still some visible. Sprayed some PPG Omni 2k which cover the fisheyes and after blocking everything looks smooth and straight. I purchased the StartingLine DeVilbiss with the two guns one with 1.4 fluid tip for base and clears, so the manual says, and the other gun with a 1.8 tip for primer . Now for my questions.

What do you guys think about the DeVilbiss will it spray the base and clear OK or should I get something different?

The only thing the owners guide that came with the gun says about air pressure is 30psi inlet provides 10psi at the air cap. So I figure that's a 3 to 1 ratio so 42psi gives me 14psi at the air cap which is what the Omni spec sheet calls for. Now I have read on this forum that some says the hose going to the gun should have 120psi is this correct if so my compressor 's range is 100 to 120 should I adjust the range so it never comes under 120psi?

Now back to the spraying since the fisheyes are no longer visible do you think it will be OK or is this something that will come back later and bite me in the butt? Is there any prevention that I can do now before base and clear that would help any problems down the road other than taking it back down to bare metal?

I also got a dry texture like spray on epoxy and 2k I know it is me and gun set up. Probably a combination of air pressure, gun controls and me.

I am painting in my shop/homemade paint booth. I have a cross draft with filters on the intake side and that seems to work fairly well because I am not seeing any trash as of yet, this could change tho with the base and clear I don't know. I think as of now it is mostly set ups on the air pressures
and gun controls so what would you guys recommend for this DeVilbiss?

Dave
 
I personally would not shot your base and clear with the starting line gun (s) I've shot bc/cc with my devilbiss gti which is my primer gun, with great results, but it took a lot of effort on my part to get the clear to flow out I was probably 4 inches away if not less when spraying the clear. Had no problems with the base coat. I use a Tekna now for bc/cc.

But if that's all you have for guns. Then spray a few test panels to get used to how it works and you'll do fine.

I still get a few dry spray spots when using 2k even if I reduce it a bit but only on long panels like the roof I'm doing now it's a 77 f250 crew cab so the roof is as long as the bed and I have to shoot it in two sections so it's a bit dry right down the center, not a problem with primer as it will be blocked smooth again.

The fish eye problem (if that's what it is) the 2k will cover and fill it in. But I would knock down the fish eyes with 220 before I sprayed 2k over it, but it should be fine if their were contamination where you had the issue it's usually gone because it's already escaped the epoxy and came to the surface.
 
I started painting with the startingline. now, im justa hobbiest, so take this for what its worth.
I shot solids and metallic with a 1.3 tip. lots of practice and I was able to get them to lay down nice. clearcoat, on the other hand the only way I could get it to lay somewhat without OP was to over reduce the clear. I woud still get OP, but not as bad. the startingline doesn't have the greatest of atomization. I would suggest, if you want better results, look into either a finishline 3 or 4. I upgraded to the 3 not long after starting painting and the improvement was extremely noticeable. and if you want to spend a little more, look into a tekna. I upgraded to that a couple years ago and after lots of practice, have come to love it.
air pressure, gun control(distance from surface, speed of movement, and overlap of each pass), AND gun setup( fan pattern and fluid control adjustment) all have to come together and practice helps a lot.
 
Mike.;37379 said:
Dont know what your budget is but this was the best deal on a iwata lph400lv gun that i could find, it sprays excellent. You can also find a vaper aluminum 1000ml cup fairly cheep around twenty bucks, fits on the gun perfect.


http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=IWA5550
Click to expand...

That is the best price I have seen on the Iwata 400 LV too. Most I have been seeing is somewhere around 470 I think .
If I knew I could get this starting line DeVilbiss to work on the bc and cc just one time I would be happy. I'll probably never
paint another car that's why I hate to invest that much, but I could always sell tho I guess.
Thanks Mike for the reply and link.
Dave
 
check with russ, satarules on here, he comes across some pretty good used guns for pretty cheap and has good prices on new guns too. Ive bought a couple of used iwatas off of him, lph-440(primer), and an lph-400, and a new lph-400 and cant complain in the least. just tell him the brothers from kansas sent ya

also im pretty sure if you had a used lph-400 you had gotten for a good price that youd be able to re coup most of your investment via ebay or the local autobody
 
one thing on the fish eyes- that's not caused by the gun. you've got contamination in your air lines. do you have a filter/moisture trap on your compressor?

for practice, you might want to check with your jobber and see if they have any mismatched paint. they usually sell it pretty cheap and its great for practice.
 
Yes you are right I know the fisheyes were not the equipment but it could have been a nut loose on the gun. LOL That's a good Idea about the mismatched paint I will check into that. Your probably right about the air hose it is old and that is one of the things I plan to change before painting again. I have read also that the hose should have an inside dimension of no less than 5/16" it think the one I have is 1/4". I did not see any evidence of water in the traps and filter but I guess one never knows. The thing I am more concerned with now is the dry spraying and it could be related to the distance I held the gun from the target. I was always told to keep a distance of about 12" but have read the HVLP gun needs to be closer and the DeVilbiss startline may even need to be closer still. So that's at least 2 things I will change before spraying again the air hose and target distance. Thanks for the info guys
Dave
 
I have an old scrap hood that I kinda cut my teeth on. I had some mismatched paint I bought for like $10 a gallon and just kept messing around, calling Barry, and more messing till I figured out what it was that I was looking/hearing for.
 
I had to have my startingline gun about 6"-8" from the surface. dial in the fan pattern on some masking paper on a wall.
 
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