SPI SS Red Question

This is some black SPI stage that I recently sprayed. Little more texture than I’m used to. I sprayed five coats in one session which I think makes the peel worse since you are stacking peel on peel. It was around 70 if I remember right. Slow activator. Urethane retarder in the last coat.

Don
IMG_2613.jpeg
 
This is some black SPI stage that I recently sprayed. Little more texture than I’m used to. I sprayed five coats in one session which I think makes the peel worse since you are stacking peel on peel. It was around 70 if I remember right. Slow activator. Urethane retarder in the last coat.

Don
View attachment 29788
Look great I usually run some retarder . I’d rather have some peel to deal with than a bunch of urethane wave. It’s very hard to get out sometimes if the clear has been pounded on. 5 or 6 coats of clear or single stage start hard blocking it with 600 or 800 and go up and the results can’t be beat in my opinion
 
Look great I usually run some retarder . I’d rather have some peel to deal with than a bunch of urethane wave. It’s very hard to get out sometimes if the clear has been pounded on. 5 or 6 coats of clear or single stage start hard blocking it with 600 or 800 and go up and the results can’t be beat in my opinion
I agree. Peel over wave any day! I try to avoid blocking if I can. Paper loads up if I do it dry and I prefer to sand the first few grits dry so my old eyes can see what is going on. I don’t get perfection but that is not my goal.

Don
 
Urethane wave is the devil. Never spray 6 coats back to back of either single stage or clear. Especially Universal. Ask me how I know.:)
 
Urethane wave is the devil. Never spray 6 coats back to back of either single stage or clear. Especially Universal. Ask me how I know.:)
Lol I did on a big door one time and pounded the universal on… when it came to sanding and buffing I was sanding with 600 forever to get the wave out never again
 
I read here once that wave is caused by using high air pressure and it pushes the clear around. I’ve started using a little less air pressure. It’s a balance but it does seem to help.

When using high air pressure I think it helps to back away and increase overlap. Unfortunately I learned with a LPH400 so it’s hard for me to remember to back away when using a Sata for example. YMMV…

Don
 
I've done five coats quite a few times and the urethane wave was minimal. Every time I go to six is when I get bad wave that's hard to get out. Car I'm doing now I'm going to do three/sand/three. That will be with Universal though. The one after that will be solid SS. Glasurit. Going to do the three+three on that too. I think it's easier to do that than deal with the wave.
 
Pics as requested. You can see there is a lot of clean up work to be done. Honestly the results are bit humbling. Definitely thought it came out better than that when they were still wet. Point being, that is why I am asking questions. I have the cab, hood, and eventually the bed (it needs a lot of work) to spray and I want to get it figured out by then.
 
I read here once that wave is caused by using high air pressure and it pushes the clear around. I’ve started using a little less air pressure. It’s a balance but it does seem to help.

When using high air pressure I think it helps to back away and increase overlap. Unfortunately I learned with a LPH400 so it’s hard for me to remember to back away when using a Sata for example. YMMV…

Don
I switched to a Sata 5500 rp i I love it. I have a 1.2 and 1.3 nozzle for it haven’t tried universal with it yet though just the pog clear at work it is fantastic gun
 
I've done five coats quite a few times and the urethane wave was minimal. Every time I go to six is when I get bad wave that's hard to get out. Car I'm doing now I'm going to do three/sand/three. That will be with Universal though. The one after that will be solid SS. Glasurit. Going to do the three+three on that too. I think it's easier to do that than deal with the wave.
My goal is to spray it all at once. Otherwise it adds another two or three days to the timeline when doing three plus three. The juice isn’t worth the squeeze for the stuff I build.

When I was at Kindigit they were doing 5 coats in one session. He said the goal was just to get enough material on the car to cut and buff.

Don
 
My goal is to spray it all at once. Otherwise it adds another two or three days to the timeline when doing three plus three. The juice isn’t worth the squeeze for the stuff I build.

When I was at Kindigit they were doing 5 coats in one session. He said the goal was just to get enough material on the car to cut and buff.

Don
I agree I like to do it all at once as well and sand and buff and be done
 
I switched to a Sata 5500 rp i I love it. I have a 1.2 and 1.3 nozzle for it haven’t tried universal with it yet though just the pog clear at work it is fantastic gun
I have a Sata RP 5500 1.3 but I don’t think I’m man enough for that gun. :D I seem to get better results with my LPH400 1.4. Slower going but less wave.

Don
 
Pics as requested. You can see there is a lot of clean up work to be done. Honestly the results are bit humbling. Definitely thought it came out better than that when they were still wet. Point being, that is why I am asking questions. I have the cab, hood, and eventually the bed (it needs a lot of work) to spray and I want to get it figured out by then.
yeah....hmm, it will be interesting to see what the pros have to say. thanks for posting man, i know its hard to show things your not yet proud of. i think it will give the guys a better idea of what happened.
 
@HarleyJack , it doesn't look like you ran it anywhere, so probably more overlap would be good. I don't know about the FLG but its manual says it wants 35 PSI, so maybe you are on the low side even though you think you are not. I kinda think you need a better gun, you might be hitting the limitation of what it can do, also if you get an LPH or SATA then we can help more, because I don't think anyone here uses an FLG. I think that the 5% reducer might be a good thing to try also.
 
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