Solid Head Rivet Installation

My window channel seals came with small rivets similar to these:

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I am want to install them without having to spend a bunch of money on a tool I'll probably only use one time.
Will an air chisel with a blunt end work to install these?
My thinking its to place to the bottom of the channel on a steel block and then hammer on the top.
 
Those are semi-tubular rivets, the intent is for the thin area to roll outward until it contacts the metal, pulling things together. If you have a spare or two to practice with, I'd suggest a large pointed punch to get the outward roll going before hammering with anything flat.


Here's the tooling that's used in a rivet squeezer, note the die is formed to push the end outward and then roll. They also make a hand punch for setting these that may be a bit more cost effective. All the dies made will be specifically for one diameter size, so choose the right one..


TUBULAR-RIVET-SET-FOR-RIVET-SQUEEZER.jpg



edit......

I didn't think they'd be $60, but the following link shows the hand tool that you may be able to make on a lathe.... or if you know a guy that does...


 
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Here below is the type of tool that uses the head Robert posted above. I have used one on vent windows before and they work great. The yoke depth is important as it depends how far you can reach in on the rivet.

 
Where on the car are we talking about? Stainless molding with weather seals riveted on?

The channel on the left side where the rear of the window rides.
It is U shaped rubber and held in place by two of these rivets. The head of the rivets being inside the rubber holding it to the metal.
Door Glass Attachment.jpg
 
Yes I see now. Can't use screws because it will affect the window.rollimg up. Could use staples instead. Just drill some small holes push the staple thru and bend tabs on the other side, it's a cheap alternative
 
Here below is the type of tool that uses the head Robert posted above. I have used one on vent windows before and they work great. The yoke depth is important as it depends how far you can reach in on the rivet.

I have the same dilemma with old Harley fenders and the semi tubular rivets. Got the rivets that are a perfect match but need to squeeze them.
I think I'm going to buy the squeezer above that Lone Star posted or one like it.
 
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I have the same dilemma with old Harley fenders and the semi tubular rivets. Got the rivets that are a perfect match but need to squeeze them.
I think I'm going to buy the squeezer above that Lone Star posted or one like it.

The one that Harley sells as a service item will not do the rivets on the tour packs, not enough throat depth. Only deep enough for the saddle bags. I’ll take a picture of mine that was slightly modified and get a dimension for you.
 
The one that Harley sells as a service item will not do the rivets on the tour packs, not enough throat depth. Only deep enough for the saddle bags. I’ll take a picture of mine that was slightly modified and get a dimension for you.
I didn't know Harley sold a rivet tool. But not surprised it is limited in function.
I considered machining the dies and using a heavy duty c-clamp. But by the time I work all that out I can use the time to earn and just buy what will work. I guess I have less patience in my senior years.
 
I didn't know Harley sold a rivet tool. But not surprised it is limited in function.
I considered machining the dies and using a heavy duty c-clamp. But by the time I work all that out I can use the time to earn and just buy what will work. I guess I have less patience in my senior years.


This was the tool for the hinges and latches on the bags and supposedly tour packs. I would remove the hinges and latches for any paintwork, everyone else around here taped off.

I modified the tool on the left for about a 6” throat so that it would do the tour pack hinges. 1/2” thick 6061 aluminum. Took a bandsaw to the $200 Harley tool. :p


3F992B97-0A07-47E9-9D11-0737FA4B5295.jpeg
 
Here below is the type of tool that uses the head Robert posted above. I have used one on vent windows before and they work great. The yoke depth is important as it depends how far you can reach in on the rivet.

Yes, that looks like a tool that would do the job but $150 to install 4 little rivets is more than I want to spend.
 
We came up with this:
IMG_2607.jpg

Either find dies that fit or turn them on the lathe. It does reach to where the rivets go.
Edit:
The Stimpson tool is still made (apx. $350) but I don't see dies for hollow rivets. Die sets apx $140 for others.
The new machines are cast aluminum. The one on my bench is so old its cast iron.
So it looks like some lathe work is in order.
 
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