Soda Blasting Cars????

NextGen Classics said:
I would just get a regular blaster and blast the inside,underside,jambs,rockers, firewall.You can blast the inners of the doors if your careful[not inside].The hood and trunk is a different animal.This is how I did my hood to do it right.
I split the inner and outer shells,hand stripped the outer shell and blasted the inner bracing.Then SPI epoxy,antiflutter in between and reassembled.Then just hand strip the outside of the car to avoid damaging from peening and or heat.
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I was doing a bit of research on the best method to ensure compatibility between HoldTight 102 and SPI Epoxy Primer when I came across post number #14 above. This piqued my interest so, if you have your ears on NextGen Classics, I would like to ask what your procedure is to ensure that the split trunk or hood outer panels remain usable after splitting them. I know most folk just grind the wrapped-around edge flange until its gone and replace the skin. I would love to know more. I'm currently working on a 67 GTO convertible with a rusty trunk. I've got a spare, but it is only marginally better than the original. If you have a way to get that skin off and back on, I would be very thankful to hear it. That would save me a wad of cash!

Thanks
 
@dfmoeller , I'm pretty certain that the way most guys do it is to use homemade tools to unbend the flange. It's painstaking and time-consuming, but if the spot welds are carefully drilled out, it's doable.
 
If the antiflutter is still holding this will be very tough to do on a solid inner structure. No way to cut the antiflutter loose. You can do a lot of things but in the long run I would just search for a better piece.

If you want to experiment with a junk lid though ,you could try bending the flanges and taking it off or grinding them off and carefully tig welding it all back on.

So I take it only the inner structure is rotten?Then cut away the inner structure till you have just the top lid and see how good the flutter glue is holding.
 
I haven't had trouble cutting the antiflutter foam with a very long handled knife, the same one we use for glass. There is a bit of bending involved, but not enough to cause a problem.
 
Cutting it is not a problem if you can get to it. Mopar decklids like I am use to have no access holes to get a knife in. I am not familiar with the GTO decklid though.
 
I mean snaking it into the just-opened seam from the edges inward, it's not easy, but it can work. The knife we use is a CR Laurence HT532, it has a 24" handle and is about 5/16" thick. We use serrated blades usually.
 
Crash that's cool holder.
For my Caddy door clad that i spray foamed through hole to glue in place to hold forever 15yrs ago (forgot when i started removing for paint 2yrs ago lol) i used super thin flexable Victorinox filet knife i had. Approx 12" blade. Razor sharp.
 
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