SMC door repair

rgfast

rgfast

Promoted Users
As title states lower hinge area 2000 camaro door has cracks around hinge mounting area, what would you guys suggest the best bonding product would be for this type of repair. My plan is to bevel all cracks out fill back in with adhesive, there is no good way to get this area from inside door due to impact bar metal enforcement panels
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Is that a common problem on that model? If so, a replacement door may have the same problem. I agree with Crashtech if you can find a good one. If repairing the one you have is your best option, 3M # 8270 is a good choice, Evercoat 891 is VERY strong, but I'm not sure if it's meant for SMC . Also, can you cut out a section behind the inner panel to gain room to repair, and then re-glue the section back in.
 
Pardon my ignorance, but would that area be metal? Could it be welded? I am not sure what SMC is so I am asking.
 
Kawickrice said:
Pardon my ignorance, but would that area be metal? Could it be welded? I am not sure what SMC is so I am asking.
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I had the same question and googled it. Not metal, not fiberglass. Apparently SMC is some composite plastic. And there are specific compounds for repairing it.
I'm with @crashtech, find a good used one. Area is too critical to mess with.
 
If you can get inside access, A repair can be made stronger then the original since you now know the area to make stronger. You can reinforce the week area with perforated metal bonded right in. Keep in mind that "original" often times sucks.
 
Back in 1994 when my first stock options with Intel Corp. vested, I went out and bought a brand new Z28 Gen 4 Camaro for cash. Awesome car, but those are the longest doors known to mankind. Couldn't open it and get out of the car in modern parking lots. Can't imagine the stress on those plastic hinge mounts.
 
SMC is Sheet Molded Compound. Uses an epoxy based resin. Typical fiberglass resins are not compatible with SMC.

Like Crash said without being able to get at it from the inside, trying to repair it is a waste of time. You need to be able to access it from both sides.
That is a very typical area for those Camaro doors to crack. Doors are long and heavy and that hinge area is the end of the lever so it cracks. Seen it a lot of times. We always replaced the door.
This SEM video gives you an idea of what is necessary to repair SMC. 2 part Filler/adhesives alone will not fix it.

 
my worry about finding a good used one is the newest you're going to find is 20+ years old now days. As common as this is with these cars, I don't know if finding one not starting to have the same problems is going to be easy. Hawks maybe a good source for a good replacement but they are proud of their parts.
Another thought is welding a brace from the impact bar down to the support plate which the lower hinge bolt plate goes though in turn that should take the stress off the inner door skin
 
I can get a door $350 shipped from Hawks third gen but who's to say it will be any better. I'm going for the repair here, what SMC repair product would you guys recommend?
 
If you are dead set on repairing it, watch the video that Chris posted, that lays out the process you will need to follow.
 
orangejuiced86 said:
If you are dead set on repairing it, watch the video that Chris posted, that lays out the process you will need to follow.
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I have and understand that I've got to attack this from both sides, Sem product shown in video seems to have been discontinued in 2019
I'm looking at Evercoat SMC resin and cloth right now but hate the thought starting this and get the man you should of have used this instead which is the norm for me LOL
 
rgfast said:
I have and understand that I've got to attack this from both sides, Sem product shown in video seems to have been discontinued in 2019
I'm looking at Evercoat SMC resin and cloth right now but hate the thought starting this and get the man you should of have used this instead which is the norm for me LOL
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Fortunately since it is the bottom hinge and the pressure is pushing in instead of pulling out, the repair on the outside will be the most important. I would use more fiberglass and much less adhesive then shown in the video, but other then that the process shown looked good. If they have different speed options on the adhesive you go with, I have found slower is the strongest if you have the time to let it sit. Maybe I'm wrong, but it seems to me that the longer any product stays "wet" the better the long term adhesion.
 
well after a week of the daily work schedule and materials showing up looks like I've received all the goodies to tackle this door problem. Honestly, I'll more probably end spending more money fixing this door then just replacing but I'll know what I've got, and door printed codes still match original equipment
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rgfast said:
well after a week of the daily work schedule and materials showing up looks like I've received all the goodies to tackle this door problem. Honestly, I'll more probably end spending more money fixing this door then just replacing but I'll know what I've got, and door printed codes still match original equipment
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Been following your thread from the beginning. I admire your dedication for making the repair. I too have spent as much, or more, making a repair than buying another piece. At the end of the day, I can say I made the repair, made it better than original, and acquired another skill.

Looking forward to your progress updates.
 
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