Small wrinkle in my basecoat

F

FlameOut

I just finished spraying a basecoat and was getting ready to spray my Universal clear and noticed a wrinkle in a small area of my base. I tried letting it dry, sanded with 500 grit and respray, but the wrinkle came back. I started with a couple coats of SPY Epoxy primer, followed by a few SPI 2k, blocked, the SPI sealer. Paint is PPG DBC

Does anyone know what causes this? I need to get my clear sprayed today, but need to first fix this problem. I'm spraying in my garage and by no means am I a professional. This is only the 2nd car I ever attempted to paint, and even though I did them in my garage, they turned out decent

The area in question is right at the wheel tub visible in the 2nd photo. Not sure why it look gray in the 1st, but it is marina blue
 
I am no expert. The only time I have got wrinkling is when I used Bulldog adhesion promotor on a bumper and the Bulldog was applied too thick. What I had to do was let the base dry, then sand and then apply a very light coat of base to prevent the solvents from the base from attacking. Let this coat dry, and then apply another very light coat. and repeat until I got coverage.
 
Thanks Craig, I'll give that a try in the morning. I ended up masking off the inside of the bed and cleared the entire outside. I had my garage up to 70 deg, then noticed it getting cold. My damn heater broke. Couldn't have happened at a worse time. I just hope the Universal clear cures ok. I was going to sand down to metal, then epoxy again, but I was told I need to clearcoat the base within a 24 hour window, so that eliminates any epoxy primer.
 
the only time that happened like that was when some bondo spot putty was not cured enough, the solvents from the base just attacked it. Did you touch up the primer with some rattle can in that area?
 
The base didn't require activator, just mix 1:1 with the reducer. I didn't use any type of rattle can primer. Just SPI epoxy, the 2k reg build, then 2k sealer. I was able to fix my heater, so I had it warm enough to paint today. While prepping, I noticed a few run in my clear from yesterday, so thought I'd wet sand them, but went through the base. Ok, so now I have two area to respray the base. I thought it was going to be a good day! Well, my initial problem seemed to spray ok this time, but now I have that lifting of the paint where I resprayed where the runs were. This area was perfect, other than those few runs, so not sure what step caused this
 
FlameOut;n82017 said:
The base didn't require activator, just mix 1:1 with the reducer. I didn't use any type of rattle can primer. Just SPI epoxy, the 2k reg build, then 2k sealer. I was able to fix my heater, so I had it warm enough to paint today. While prepping, I noticed a few run in my clear from yesterday, so thought I'd wet sand them, but went through the base. Ok, so now I have two area to respray the base. I thought it was going to be a good day! Well, my initial problem seemed to spray ok this time, but now I have that lifting of the paint where I resprayed where the runs were. This area was perfect, other than those few runs, so not sure what step caused this
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That is why bmenard asked if you activated the base. Activating the base even if not stipulated by the mfr will keep it from lifting if you break through.
 
John Long;n82019 said:
That is why bmenard asked if you activated the base. Activating the base even if not stipulated by the mfr will keep it from lifting if you break through.
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I've only ever been able to recoat over fresh base that was not activated by epoxy over the sand through then light coats. Sometimes that still burned on the edge.
 
bmenard;n82021 said:
I've only ever been able to recoat over fresh base that was not activated by epoxy over the sand through then light coats. Sometimes that still burned on the edge.
Click to expand...

Exactly, A little catylist in your base will help prevent that.

John
 
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DBC can be activated with DX57 as per P-175. Recently while sanding clear on my car (this was my first BC/CC paint job instead of SS) I did break through the clear and some base on a lower edge behind the rear wheel. I scuffed it and sprayed a few dry coats of DBC with an airbrush and it didn't lift luckly. That was before I learned you could spray a thin coat of clear over the area, let that setup and then base over it then clear.
 
It sounds like you are spraying the base too wet and/or using too slow of a reducer. If you have or can get some fast or very fast reducer, get some and mix enough base to spray the problem areas. Using very light coats, and proper flash times, you should be able to cover the trouble spots and avoid further wrinkling. I have never used the SPI sealer, but I have personally never had any trouble with the epoxy or 2K primer lifting using PPG base coat.
 
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