Slicksand vs. 2k Primer
- Thread starter MX442
- Start date
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
Slick sand and other poly primers are for areas where the bodywork is extensive. Think of it as the last skim coat of filler, just without the spreader marks. It's good to use poly primer on cars or parts that were hammered from one end to the other. The label claiming no sealer is marketing, previous types of poly primer could not be painted over, and the new ones claim to be paintable, and they are technically, but that is for cheap Maaco type jobs.
B
Bob Hollinshead
Polyprimers are high build, quick complete cure, and very stable.
C
ChunkyLover53
Bob Hollinshead;29616 said:
As opposed to 2k primers that are not high build, not quick complete curing, and highly unstable?
B
Bob Hollinshead
Urethane primers also have their advantages, better sprayability, easy sanding... just don't abuse them by excessive application thickness and the same with anything cure time needs to be known to eliminate shrinkage problems down the road.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
That's what is called a "straw man" argument. Obviously no one has made such assertions about 2K urethane primer. It can be said, however, that 2K urethane, compared to poly primer, builds less, cures slower, and is potentially less stable in that it generally retains a higher degree of solvent solubility for much longer than poly primer.ChunkyLover53;29652 said:
C
ChunkyLover53
crashtech;29663 said:
You are right. I actually didn't know the advantages and disadvantages.
I just had to give him a hard time because the question was about 2k primer and poly primers. It seemed like a half answer. I appreciate that he answered the 2k part as well. Sorry for being a smart ass though, I was just messing around.
B
Bob Hollinshead
ChunkyLover53;29686 said:
You can do good work with both products but each has it's own advantages. For years I did all epoxy and urethane surfacer, do what works well for you. There's lots of people that won't touch polyprimer, there's some that only use polyprimer, and there's others that use epoxy from start to finish....I do what I feel is right for the job and have my own opinion on what procedure I feel is best. Obviously perfect metalwork with minimal build would always be optimum. Half answers lead to questions, you can do your own testing but oftentimes with this stuff it takes years and years to reach a conclusion.
MX442
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Bob Hollinshead;29703 said:
Bob, Crash, and others, I'd like to use your years and years of research to tell me what product would be a better choice to use. I haven't used either one, but it sounds like for my application 2k will be more user friendly and do the job. I will post pics of my project after I complete the metalwork.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
It's more of a personal preference than anything. On the '70 GTO I'm doing, so far the only parts to get poly primer have been the doors, because they needed it. I tend to use poly primer on panels that 1) Have had extensive work done to them or are "factory wavy" 2) Aren't susceptible to stone chipping, like front edges of fenders, behind wheel openings, front edge of roof, etc. It's my own opinion that high builds of poly primer decrease stone chip resistance. High builds of anything decrease chip resistance, but poly primer builds most of all.
Chad.S
Oldtimer
I'm getting ready to poly prime a car I am working on but I sand it until it starts to break through all over the panel. If i'm going to put it on i'm going to make sure to use it to it's potential, if you're not sanding through it you are adding excessive mil build up for no reason. This helps with the chip resistance IMO.