Single stage jambs

T

Tyson05

New Member
I’m currently painting a 1966 Chevelle. I have the fenders, hood, and deck lid painted with SPI SS black and now working on the body, doors and jambs. I’m painting over an older base/clear job. I know I should strip it, but my goal is to just make the car presentable so my family can enjoy it before I do a full restore.

I was originally going to pull the doors and paint them separate but I’m running out of room and I don’t think it is worth the time for my goals.

I’m thinking I will spray two coats of SPI epoxy primer on the exterior and one in the jambs, sand it the next day, and spray 4 coats of SS black on the exterior and two in the jambs. My question is, if I keep the doors closed (without the strikers) and paint two coats on the exterior, then open the doors and do two more coats on the exterior and jambs, will the overspray that I get in the jambs on the first two coats cause me any problems? I thought about doing the jambs first, then doing the exterior but it would require a lot of masking, waiting, and back taping. If I could just spray them all at once it would save me a lot of time.
 

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I would do the last jamb coat at the same time as the last exterior coat, and probably use some retarder in that coat to aid overspray melt in, but let's see what others think, because I don't paint assembled completes anymore, too much work!
 
Thanks for the advise guys! I’m using a slow activator so hopefully that will help melt it in too. Would you guys shoot the first coat in the jambs along with the first coat on the exterior or wait for the 3rd coat?
 
So what does one do if the jambs are already done? I have pretty much the same issue. I have already done the inside of the doors/jambs. Now ready to shoot the outside. The one I am doing has good lip overhang so masking or using other materials may work well. I had planned on inserting foam or blowing up some plastic like a balloon in some areas........just makes me wonder what is common when doors are not removed.
 
Backmask or use a soft edge product to mask. Backmasking works better than the 3M foam strips IMO. If you backmask carefully you can have almost a perfect transition in many places. You want to keep the transition area as small as possible. Are you familiar with backmasking?
 
Yes. I guess I loop it into masking, though it is different in detail. Glad to hear on the foam. It is pricey and not worth it if the other works. Guess maybe I was over thinking it a bit.
 
HarleyJack said:
Yes. I guess I loop it into masking, though it is different in detail. Glad to hear on the foam. It is pricey and not worth it if the other works. Guess maybe I was over thinking it a bit.
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Backmasking as I'm referring to it is laying tape on the area you want to mask. 1/2 on the area, 1/2 off. You use 1 1/2" or 2" to do it. You pull the part off the panel back onto itself. Secure the loose edge with more tape. Done right you have a very small area just off an edge and it gives you a soft edge. Usually it's barely noticeable and even less so with a quick pass with the buffer.

I don't normally do vids but I'll try to do one to illustrate what I'm talking about. I've never liked the 3M rope foam designed for a soft edge so I've always backmasked as it works well once you learn how to do it.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Backmasking as I'm referring to it is laying tape on the area you want to mask. 1/2 on the area, 1/2 off. You use 1 1/2" or 2" to do it. You pull the part off the panel back onto itself. Secure the loose edge with more tape. Done right you have a very small area just off an edge and it gives you a soft edge. Usually it's barely noticeable and even less so with a quick pass with the buffer.

I don't normally do vids but I'll try to do one to illustrate what I'm talking about. I've never liked the 3M rope foam designed for a soft edge so I've always backmasked as it works well once you learn how to do it.
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i'd like to see that vid when you have time Chris. i already know i could have done better in my last attempt, but your knowledge would help keep me from more hard way learning.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
Backmasking as I'm referring to it is laying tape on the area you want to mask. 1/2 on the area, 1/2 off. You use 1 1/2" or 2" to do it. You pull the part off the panel back onto itself. Secure the loose edge with more tape. Done right you have a very small area just off an edge and it gives you a soft edge. Usually it's barely noticeable and even less so with a quick pass with the buffer.

I don't normally do vids but I'll try to do one to illustrate what I'm talking about. I've never liked the 3M rope foam designed for a soft edge so I've always backmasked as it works well once you learn how to do it.
Click to expand...
I understand now. Definitely not what I thought you meant, but I 100% see what it is doing. It kind of forces a blend vs a large edge.....in my simple redneck speak. Never would have thought of that. Good info.
 
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