Do you have a Pro-Spray mixing bank as well?Hotbo said:all of the above could be accurate.i rush b/c most of my collision work is on a tight schedule.in the winter i can see what your saying to be even more true.i have thought about these things as well.
for the past 3 months its been pretty warm to down right hot in western Arkansas.my panel temps for the past month during work hours stay above 80-90.i do my bodywork then prime.generally wait 6-8 hours before first block(that can be same day to next day times.)block my primer with 180 wet and lay 2-3 coats of primer after that.i finish block with 400 wet.if i have to paint the same day i wait at least 2 hours with panel temps well above 70 degress.i do my paint work.next morning i un wrap car and look for areas that need buffed or my repair areas.9-10 times my repair areas already have what i call mapping...
Flash times may cause some issues i guess? i use no reducer in my primer if that matters,thanks Travis
no.i want one but have not bought it yet. where i buy my SPI products they have pro-spray and mix about 3-4 colors a week for me.Its great actually,b/c ive learned which colors S-W has problems with and which ones Pro-spray and alternate to speed up my color matching times.Hotbo said:all of the above could be accurate.i rush b/c most of my collision work is on a tight schedule.in the winter i can see what your saying to be even more true.i have thought about these things as well.
for the past 3 months its been pretty warm to down right hot in western Arkansas.my panel temps for the past month during work hours stay above 80-90.i do my bodywork then prime.generally wait 6-8 hours before first block(that can be same day to next day times.)block my primer with 180 wet and lay 2-3 coats of primer after that.i finish block with 400 wet.if i have to paint the same day i wait at least 2 hours with panel temps well above 70 degress.i do my paint work.next morning i un wrap car and look for areas that need buffed or my repair areas.9-10 times my repair areas already have what i call mapping...
Flash times may cause some issues i guess? i use no reducer in my primer if that matters,thanks Travis
crashtech;n84078 said:Learning how to put bodywork into a finer grit is probably the single best thing anyone can do to minimize the the chance of serious shrinkage. Mostly it's a matter of learning to stop sanding sooner with the 80, I actually use 150 after 80 and with patience it will straighten filler very well. It's actually better for finishing critical contours.
If you want a Pro-Spray system and a lot of toners to go with it I could get you one heck of a deal. As long as you have a gear top mix machine to put it on.Hotbo said:all of the above could be accurate.i rush b/c most of my collision work is on a tight schedule.in the winter i can see what your saying to be even more true.i have thought about these things as well.
for the past 3 months its been pretty warm to down right hot in western Arkansas.my panel temps for the past month during work hours stay above 80-90.i do my bodywork then prime.generally wait 6-8 hours before first block(that can be same day to next day times.)block my primer with 180 wet and lay 2-3 coats of primer after that.i finish block with 400 wet.if i have to paint the same day i wait at least 2 hours with panel temps well above 70 degress.i do my paint work.next morning i un wrap car and look for areas that need buffed or my repair areas.9-10 times my repair areas already have what i call mapping...
Flash times may cause some issues i guess? i use no reducer in my primer if that matters,thanks Travis
I myself have been using 3m platinum or select, and Automotive art platinum.. They all seem to work pretty good.Barry said:9 times out of 10, when this happens, it can be stopped with two little changes.
(not counting as a change but epoxy over the cheap filler will also stop this)
First coat of primer spray a wet coat and flash it good, as trapping solvent in first coat will swell scratches and very common when 2nd coat apllied to fast.
The solvents can make a 320 grit look like 80 if bad enough.
Being old school, I always finish filler with 80 grit but than again, I'm using epoxy over the filler before primer.
In rare cases where i did not use epoxy, I let first coat of primer set for 10-15 minutes before second coat, third coat does not need that kind of flash but first coat just like a basecoat causes the most issues as far as solvent trapping.
Cheap filler needs to go and best buys are in the $26-32 range such as Marson gold, platinum or Z-grip.
I ditched the 80 grit all together, and have been using 100 grit, then going to 150.. I prefer that over the 80 grit.crashtech said:Learning how to put bodywork into a finer grit is probably the single best thing anyone can do to minimize the the chance of serious shrinkage. Mostly it's a matter of learning to stop sanding sooner with the 80, I actually use 150 after 80 and with patience it will straighten filler very well. It's actually better for finishing critical contours.
chad have you quit Pro-spray??Hotbo said:all of the above could be accurate.i rush b/c most of my collision work is on a tight schedule.in the winter i can see what your saying to be even more true.i have thought about these things as well.
for the past 3 months its been pretty warm to down right hot in western Arkansas.my panel temps for the past month during work hours stay above 80-90.i do my bodywork then prime.generally wait 6-8 hours before first block(that can be same day to next day times.)block my primer with 180 wet and lay 2-3 coats of primer after that.i finish block with 400 wet.if i have to paint the same day i wait at least 2 hours with panel temps well above 70 degress.i do my paint work.next morning i un wrap car and look for areas that need buffed or my repair areas.9-10 times my repair areas already have what i call mapping...
Flash times may cause some issues i guess? i use no reducer in my primer if that matters,thanks Travis