B
bomccorkle
Mr shine do you have any pics of your door/engine stand? I am planning to steal your idea and I figured a few pics may make robbing it go a bit quicker.
MP&C
Member
Here's a door fixture for installing.... while re-assembling the car I came up with this as these doors were quite heavy and we didn't need any paint chips....
I had seen some of the cradle style that you could add to your floor jack, but I have a problem how the cradle supports the complete weight of the door across the lower edge of a door skin. Too much risk of paint damage in my view. So I came up with another version that would support the weight across a wider area on the inner door, for less risk of damage to any visible area.
Here's the basic form, with some pipe receivers using set screws. The support braces are bent from electrical EMT and covered in pipe insulation to protect the finish..
The support braces also help to keep the door oriented in a vertical position, to keep the door from flopping back and forth (as you may experience with the cradle style). This will help prevent paint damage/chips from excessive door movement during the install.
Notice nothing touches the edge of the door skin....
Once hinges are snug, loosen set screws for outer support brace, lower a couple inches, remove outer support brace, and simply pull jack toward rear of car to clear door.
I had seen some of the cradle style that you could add to your floor jack, but I have a problem how the cradle supports the complete weight of the door across the lower edge of a door skin. Too much risk of paint damage in my view. So I came up with another version that would support the weight across a wider area on the inner door, for less risk of damage to any visible area.
Here's the basic form, with some pipe receivers using set screws. The support braces are bent from electrical EMT and covered in pipe insulation to protect the finish..
The support braces also help to keep the door oriented in a vertical position, to keep the door from flopping back and forth (as you may experience with the cradle style). This will help prevent paint damage/chips from excessive door movement during the install.
Notice nothing touches the edge of the door skin....
Once hinges are snug, loosen set screws for outer support brace, lower a couple inches, remove outer support brace, and simply pull jack toward rear of car to clear door.
L
lax54650
i think i will modify mine to be like yours.
B
bomccorkle
Excellent. Thanks for the help guys. Been trying to think of a way to make painting a door easier than hanging it and assembling a bit easier too.
MP&C
Member
I have some heavy duty tripod bases on casters (the three on the left) that have a 2" inside diameter tube with set screw for changing out different "fixtures" for painting as seen here:
I'd like to set one up for doing the 55's doors, using some flat bar into the hinge mounts as Shine shows above. Most of my work is rust/metal repairs with the painting afterward, so I don't see as much time in a booth as guys in a body shop. For all you guys that are in and out of a paint booth more frequently, would you see any issue to line the doors up end to end? I'm thinking this would allow easy access to both inside and out, and take up minimal footprint in the booth for more such fixtures in the same spraying..... Like this:
I'd like to set one up for doing the 55's doors, using some flat bar into the hinge mounts as Shine shows above. Most of my work is rust/metal repairs with the painting afterward, so I don't see as much time in a booth as guys in a body shop. For all you guys that are in and out of a paint booth more frequently, would you see any issue to line the doors up end to end? I'm thinking this would allow easy access to both inside and out, and take up minimal footprint in the booth for more such fixtures in the same spraying..... Like this: