SEM Aerosol under Epoxy Sealer

H

hoodun

I used SEM 2k Primer in rattle can form at the auto body paint place near me thinking it was perfectly fine. I mentioned I had a sprayer and they still recommended the cans... Will I need to sand it all off now to paint it? The plan was to epoxy seal over the 2k SEM aerosol. Its on the rear quarter panel (but the entire panel) and half the door. The door can easily be sanded off. The panel has a lot of body work that I am afraid to cut into. There is a mix of etching primer and 2k SEM primer on the panel. Id rather not sand it down because it looks great and it took a lot of time to get it to look like this.

I guess my question is, is SEM aserosol good enough to leave on? All over this forum people are saying you cant use rattle can primer. ...Why do they even sell rattle can primer at these pro auto body supply places if they are not useful for pro painters? If I leave it, how long can I expect it to last? I'm obviously new at this.

I'm hoping to paint this car this week.
 
If this is not a used car special that is going to be dumped in next 30 days, it needs to come off.
We know its going to blow up, we just can't give you an exact time. could last 30 days or 3 years, we just don't know.
 
If this is not a used car special that is going to be dumped in next 30 days, it needs to come off.
We know its going to blow up, we just can't give you an exact time. could last 30 days or 3 years, we just don't know.
 
hoodun;41265 said:
Why do they even sell rattle can primer at these pro auto body supply places if they are not useful for pro painters?
Click to expand...

1. Don't assume just because they work at an auto body store that they know what they are doing. I've seen some terrible recommendations come from some counter salesman. Not all of them are also paints or have any painting experience. It's just a job to some and they sell going of what they've heard or been told with no real experience. Not all, but some.

2. Not all body shops do true quality work. Like Barry said, "used car special". Some shops care only about how much money they can make and as long as the car gets sold before the paint comes off, your good to go.

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hoodun;41265 said:
Why do they even sell rattle can primer at these pro auto body supply places if they are not useful for pro painters?
Click to expand...

1. Don't assume just because they work at an auto body store that they know what they are doing. I've seen some terrible recommendations come from some counter salesman. Not all of them are also paints or have any painting experience. It's just a job to some and they sell going of what they've heard or been told with no real experience. Not all, but some.

2. Not all body shops do true quality work. Like Barry said, "used car special". Some shops care only about how much money they can make and as long as the car gets sold before the paint comes off, your good to go.
 
Barry;41267 said:
If this is not a used car special that is going to be dumped in next 30 days, it needs to come off.
We know its going to blow up, we just can't give you an exact time. could last 30 days or 3 years, we just don't know.
Click to expand...

3 years is not a long time... I'm pissed. I spent a lot of money on aerosol primer from these guys $25 a can. I could have easily purchased a decent 2k primer. I should have known when the guy came out to look at my car and said it was painted in lacquer... you really would think a shop in a major city would deal with so many cars that they would know something. They do Im sure but they are being shady and selling overpriced aerosol cans to people who are beginners like me.

I am going to hit it with 400 grit on the da which should take it off rather quickly without cutting into my body work too much. I used Metal Glaze which is great to work with but does come off rather easily. I'm worried though that I will have to start all over again with the body work. Part of the learning process I guess.

Its on the front panel too...

20141019_171047.jpg
 
Don't feel bad, happens a lot with the bad advice.
I had a call from a very high end production shop in Chicago today, been buying stuff for years from us, did a few high end restro's but most of his work is new insurance work.
Well hes doing a paint only on an older Mustang for a friend and lot of rust on bottom of doors and quarters, so jobber recommended por15, reason I got call was is he wanted to know why his body filler keep pealing off the por., like I told him nothing will stick a 100% to the stuff, he did not know and had never even heard of it before the jobber pushed it on him.
So now he is getting out the sand blaster, instead of the band-aid short cut.
 
When I hear the words 2k I think about a part A and B. Usually the product and activator. I'm not sure if that is the correct terminology or not. I know Eastwood sells a rattle can that you press and activator button on the bottom and the product has about a 30 min pot life. As already mentioned it's not work taking a chance on. I like to hold onto my mixing cups and make sure that what ever I had left over sets up like it is designed to. I try not to have too much left over. This also gives me conformation that I mixed it correctly.
 
rustover;41275 said:
When I hear the words 2k I think about a part A and B. Usually the product and activator. I'm not sure if that is the correct terminology or not. I know Eastwood sells a rattle can that you press and activator button on the bottom and the product has about a 30 min pot life. As already mentioned it's not work taking a chance on. I like to hold onto my mixing cups and make sure that what ever I had left over sets up like it is designed to. I try not to have too much left over. This also gives me conformation that I mixed it correctly.
Click to expand...

I did buy a 2 part epoxy 2k in an aerosol in which you had to break something internally to get get it to mix. This is the only rattle can will probably work well.
 
Sorry but I have to chime in, I was watching some Youtube Videos last night and there was one from Eastwood featuring Kevin Tetz, they were working on the bottom of a Camaro. He was using a Eastwood 2K epoxy in an aerosol can and pushing POR15 waterbased single part bedliner.

It's a shame that Kevin would indorse products like these. I'm so thankful for this site and the great knowledge that gets pass along.

Steve
 
Kevin should do some product testing with SPI, but I'm sure he already knows the downfalls of the employer's products he's been pushing. I tried a quart kit of eastwood epoxy when a flyer came in the mail offering a free primer gun with purchase.... the stuff reminded me of some of the industrial epoxies I had tried years ago-suitable for a hay bailer.
 
Hoodun,
If you are worried about the body work then I would suggest block sanding the primer off. Just use a coarse grit and long block. A DA could cause you more grief than good.
 
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