Seeking pros and cons to Epoxy P as steering wheel repair filler

N

NoobDude

I'm in the process of doing a repair on a 58 GMC steering wheel. As per the numerous posts out on the web I have the cracks opened up and holes drilled but that process has led me to question the next step which is filling the voids with JB weld.
I find that this wheel is much more like rubber than bake-a-lite or some poly carbonate or what ever 60's or 70's wheels were made of. I particularly noticed it when drilling the holes out. I began to question the compatibility of the softer rubber and JB weld which I would guess is much more brittle and if there is something that might cure pliable and have properties more like the original.
After sleeping on it I remembered the left over epoxy primer that cured in the bottom of a jar and how it was as a solid. I have two examples actually and noticed that the thinner 3/16" thick or so was much firmer and the 1/2" thick piece was more like a silly ball. Also the thinner piece was about 2 or 3 months older so I know the thicker piece was no where near finished curing.
I'm not sure what other 2k materials would work in this application or even if it matters and it would be great if JB is as good as anything else, but before I take the next step thought I'd ask your thoughts on it.
Obviously time isn't a factor if I'm contemplating letting epoxy set up for months... but I am interested in the likely hood of cracks reappearing due to differing vibrational qualities at the repair, or if there is something else that may work better.

Thanks
 
Never really understood the JB weld stuff for this.

In my book only proper way is a two part semi ridged or flexible bumper repair depending on the wheel itself.

I have used Duramix 4040 on some and 4030 on others.
Sem, 3m, Fuzor , Norton also has this type of two part.
 
Thanks Barry, with your suggestions I looked around the web some more and I see a post over on the HAMB suggesting 3M 8115. I have some 8101 left over from a bumper project I think I'll give it a shot.
 
Definately bumper repair material, and taper them cracks way out so you have a lot of surface area for adhesion and combating expansion and contraction differences. Finish the job with SPI epoxy primer and singlestage paint if possible. Never had a poblem doing it that way as long as the wheel can be cleaned and prepped well.
 
I can already tell this stuff is what I was looking for and it was sitting on my shelf ready to be used up.

Bob, I found myself saying "Bigger" as I ground out the cracks last night. I must of worked it over half a dozen times before I thought "enough" then I took a 1/16 drill bit to it for better grip. (really glad for the shop vac about then too)

What works best for shaping it when it cures up?
 
80 grit on a block or stick by hand to rough in the shape then step down the grit and apply more material as needed. Finish it off with 180 or 220 or 320 and shoot three coats of epoxy primer, let it cure up good sand and reprime if needed. The epoxy primer stays flexible and will also help deal with the expansion and contraction.
 
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