Scuff Stuff

Toolin

Toolin

Promoted Users
I'd like to hear anyone who uses Scuff Stuff along with Scotch Brite for scuffing prior to applying reduced epoxy sealer. My intention is to use it in areas where it is difficult to sand uneven surfaces. I need to rough up the complete undercarriage, engine bay and door jams as they are in year old epoxy. First of all how much may I need to do the aforementioned. It comes in quarts and gallons and is kind of pricey. I imagine a court would go very far. Should I use a maroon Scotch Brite or grey. Currently I have a box of Maroon 07447 and another box of Maroon 07777. Anybody know the difference between the two? Also I read on another post that 3M makes a new red. Jim C remarked it just keeps cutting until there's nothing left of it. Any other tips or comments would be appreciated.
 
Toolin said:
I'd like to hear anyone who uses Scuff Stuff along with Scotch Brite for scuffing prior to applying reduced epoxy sealer. My intention is to use it in areas where it is difficult to sand uneven surfaces. I need to rough up the complete undercarriage, engine bay and door jams as they are in year old epoxy. First of all how much may I need to do the aforementioned. It comes in quarts and gallons and is kind of pricey. I imagine a court would go very far. Should I use a maroon Scotch Brite or grey. Currently I have a box of Maroon 07447 and another box of Maroon 07777. Anybody know the difference between the two? Also I read on another post that 3M makes a new red. Jim C remarked it just keeps cutting until there's nothing left of it. Any other tips or comments would be appreciated.
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on epoxy that old id use 180 thats what tech sheet says !where you can. indasa makes these awesome flexible sanding sponges too for tight areas i love them https://www.finishingfocus.com/coll...ided-hand-sanding-pads-collection-case-of-100 get the orange ones they are 120-220 grit range that should be coarse enough may ask barry to be safe
 
Toolin said:
I'd like to hear anyone who uses Scuff Stuff along with Scotch Brite for scuffing prior to applying reduced epoxy sealer. My intention is to use it in areas where it is difficult to sand uneven surfaces. I need to rough up the complete undercarriage, engine bay and door jams as they are in year old epoxy. First of all how much may I need to do the aforementioned. It comes in quarts and gallons and is kind of pricey. I imagine a court would go very far. Should I use a maroon Scotch Brite or grey. Currently I have a box of Maroon 07447 and another box of Maroon 07777. Anybody know the difference between the two? Also I read on another post that 3M makes a new red. Jim C remarked it just keeps cutting until there's nothing left of it. Any other tips or comments would be appreciated.
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I use it all the time. Especially when I was doing collision. If you are doing just a few, a quart will be fine. It goes a long way. For final scuffing prior to sealer use the grey scotchbrite. 3M 7448.


You could use maroon, but maroon is more aggressive and can be problematic for final scuffing when doing a metallic in that it will scratch too much.
 
zachm said:
on epoxy that old id use 180 thats what tech sheet says !
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zachm, I think you misunderstood my intent. 180 scratches are recommended for unreduced epoxy.
I will be following sanding and scuff with reduced epoxy 1:1:1 and then applying white single stage the same day. The scuff stuff and Scotch Brite is for difficult uneven areas. I will be using 320 grit and a maroon Scotch-Brite on the jams and undercarriage. 400 grit on the areas that get buffed.
 
Here's a chart I downloaded a few years back.

ScotchBrite Chart.JPG
 
Toolin said:
zachm, I think you misunderstood my intent. 180 scratches are recommended for unreduced epoxy.
I will be following sanding and scuff with reduced epoxy 1:1:1 and then applying white single stage the same day. The scuff stuff and Scotch Brite is for difficult uneven areas. I will be using 320 grit and a maroon Scotch-Brite on the jams and undercarriage. 400 grit on the areas that get buffed.
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i would just worry about epoxy being that old not having enough bite. i thought when it got say 6 months or older it was best to 180 and shoot with an unreduced coat or two then prep.
 
zachm said:
i would just worry about epoxy being that old not having enough bite. i thought when it got say 6 months or older it was best to 180 and shoot with an unreduced coat or two then prep.
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100% correct adhesion, 14 days or older epoxy, should be sanded with 180 and epoxy reapplied. Fully cured epoxy sanded with 180, sanded with 320 would definitely lose a certain amount of adhesion. 90%? 75%? 50%? Enough to cause a problem? I have sanded thousands of 320 da/red scotch brite fully cured epoxy panels, sprayed with epoxy or 2K sealer, never seen 1 peel. Would rock chips easier? 180da/2 coats unreduced epoxy adhesion would be better than 320, 1 coat reduced epoxy or 2K sealer.
 
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texasking said:
100% correct adhesion, 14 days or older epoxy, should be sanded with 180 and epoxy reapplied. Fully cured epoxy sanded with 180, sanded with 320 would definitely lose a certain amount of adhesion. 90%? 75%? 50%? Enough to cause a problem? I have sanded thousands of 320 da/red scotch brite fully cured epoxy panels, sprayed with epoxy or 2K sealer, never seen 1 peel. Would rock chips easier? 180da/2 coats unreduced epoxy, adhesion would be better than 320, 1 coat reduced epoxy or 2K sealer.
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I’m into overkill lol
 
I use scuff stuff all the time. Like chris said, scuff stuff and a grey pad right before sealer/paint. I also use it for general prep. When scuffing undersides of hoods/trunks, engine bays, etc, i use it as a lube for my scuff pad. A quart goes a long way.
 
Toolin said:
I'd like to hear anyone who uses Scuff Stuff along with Scotch Brite for scuffing prior to applying reduced epoxy sealer. My intention is to use it in areas where it is difficult to sand uneven surfaces. I need to rough up the complete undercarriage, engine bay and door jams as they are in year old epoxy. First of all how much may I need to do the aforementioned. It comes in quarts and gallons and is kind of pricey. I imagine a court would go very far. Should I use a maroon Scotch Brite or grey. Currently I have a box of Maroon 07447 and another box of Maroon 07777. Anybody know the difference between the two? Also I read on another post that 3M makes a new red. Jim C remarked it just keeps cutting until there's nothing left of it. Any other tips or comments would be appreciated.
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i just posted in that other thread. the maroon pads are 3m 64659. not exactly new anymore. think they have been out for about 8-10 years now. these are all i have used since. i like these way better than those older 7447 ones.
 
I'm finishing what is hopefully my final blocking with 150 in anticipation of a full coat of epoxy,
Is Sun Might maroon 80100 coarse enough for the nooks and crannies where the blocks didn't go?

Would Carborundum "very fine" or USC grey be better?

Or do I need to wait and get something else?
 

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