Sanding stages

[Mark3100]

I have a 68 GTO and a person ran into the back while I was stopped at a traffic light. I decided to change the color after I repaired the damage and I just wanted to make sure I have the sanding grits stages right. Just want to make sure I get the best adhesion without scratches showing through. Thanks for the help!

Current coat Grit Spraying
1. bare metal 80 (hand or random orbit) epoxy primer
2. epoxy primer 120 (hand sand) epoxy primer
3. epoxy/filler 180 (hand sand) 2k primer
4. 2k primer 400 (random orbit) sealer
5a. sealer 400 (light hand sand) base (metallic)
5b. sealer. 600 (light hand sand) base (solid color)
6. base None or light 800 clearcoat

I hope this makes sense!

 

[dhutton01]

A lot going on there.

Just apply your filler over epoxy in the recoat window. No need to sand epoxy before filler if you are in the recoat window. Block your filler 80 and 180. Make 100% certain it is straight in the filler stage before moving to 2k. Use a dry guide coat. Then epoxy followed by 2k primer in the epoxy recoat window. Sand the primer from 220 to 400 for solids or 600 for metallics. I never use an RO for sanding my 2k. Block sand it. Apply one coat of sealer. Do a simple denib of your sealer. I use an 800 grit sanding sponge. No need to sand it completely. Apply your base.

Never sand your base without recoating it with more base before clear.

Some good info here:

Perfect Paint Job | United States | Southern Polyurethanes

The perfect paint job

www.southernpolyurethanes.com

Read and follow the TDS for each product you are using!

Don

 

[Lizer]

You only need 3 or 4 grits: 80, 180 or 220, and 400 or 600 depending on solid or metallic.

My process:

Sand metal 80 grit.
Spray epoxy
Two days later add filler, no sanding required.
Block filler 80 first then dress with 220.
Spray epoxy
Spray 2k following day.
Block 2k 220
Spray one final coat of 2k to fill in 220 scratches
Wet sand 2k with 400
Spray sealer
Base and clear.