Sanding flow coat

70restomod

New Member
Long time follower first forum post ever. Two years into restomod of 1970 camaro. I’m currently in paint stage with shell doors trunk and spoiler. Painted shell Easter Sunday and came out very well for first time paint job ever. Brief history, using all spi products, stripped car to bare metal inside and out, epoxy, body work, 2k primer, epoxy again, sat in epoxy during winter. Sanding was done 320, 400 and sprayed reduced epoxy as sealer, next day base, next day 3 coats clear. Plan was sand 800 and flow coat but hit base in two small spots, dime size while trying to sand two bugs that found way in. Lightly spotted in base for coverage with 30+ minutes between coats, let sit overnight. Last Sunday I started flow coat and immediately seen areas that were spotted in were showing, used clear I had ready with additional coat, so two coats total for flow coat. My plan now is to sand 800 wet until smooth, and rebase and re clear. My question that I’m unable to find answer is are there any concerns with cutting through flow coat into first coats of clear, any concerns besides getting into base that I had spotted on prior to flow coating? Anything thy will show or react with base when I respray. Iv learned a lot and have followed as close as possible to the perfect paint job and will be cutting and buffing to achieve the best paint job I possible can. Appreciate and help and I can post some pics if anyone is interested. Pics are after first base and three coats of clear, had dust and few bugs as would be expected painting in home shop.
 

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Also I will not be repainting any jamb areas or roof as they were not flow coated either, roof will be vinyl and only painted and cleared for protection and will be sanding for vinyl install and all jambs were taped with soft lines prior to flow coat as there were no issues. I can easily sand quarters and rear section smooth and stay within last two flowcoats with 800, but wanted to keep mils down if possible, thanks again and appreciate all the information this site contains.
 
it has been discussed on here that if you cut into the first session of clear , there could be a halo shown. ive never cut into first coat of clear but i only nib and sand with 1000, in areas and usually start with 1200. starting with something like 600 or 800 to get it flat flat is a very meticulous process and you have to pay attention or will cut into it , like you have already done. when you spray clear over sanded clear. it flows out very easily because the surface is already flat. shouldnt really need aggressive sanding. some areas on my car i i didnt even cut and buff because it looked good out the gun.
 
Thank you Chris, that is exactly the question I had. I will be spraying base and then clear on entire shell minus jambs and roof and it won’t take much to get flat but wanted to remove most of the two coats that I added for flow coat when I seen spot repairs showing through where I had made to abrupt of stops when spotting in. I appreciate your response and the time everyone takes to help out others that want to do their own work. I’m guessing that it will take less coats to achieve coverage since the first three coats already exist. I already have doors complete as I painted them off the car , will there be any concern with them matching? Color is solid and base was moto base from Chad.
 
Thank you Chris, that is exactly the question I had. I will be spraying base and then clear on entire shell minus jambs and roof and it won’t take much to get flat but wanted to remove most of the two coats that I added for flow coat when I seen spot repairs showing through where I had made to abrupt of stops when spotting in. I appreciate your response and the time everyone takes to help out others that want to do their own work. I’m guessing that it will take less coats to achieve coverage since the first three coats already exist. I already have doors complete as I painted them off the car , will there be any concern with them matching? Color is solid and base was moto base from Chad.
Many of the top tier painters on here paint parts separately all the time. Keep notes of all gun settings mixing ratios and try to stay consistent on distant and speed and you should be ok . Good luck !
 
Thanks again for the replies and the help, iv followed advice and used only spi products except the moto base. Will be sanding this weekend and preparing for base and clear sometime this coming week. Last question is should I follow my notes on setting and coats considering there is already base on the car or if I have coverage on two coats stop there. On doors and jambs that I won’t be respraying I shot three coats and want colors to match. I guess in my mind I can’t decide if the existing base will help or be offset by new base I will be applying, hope that makes sense. To anyone wanting to do their own work, save money and have the pride of doing their own work follow the advice of the many experts, diy armatures and pros that follow and post on this site and it can be done. I originally started following the recommendations of this site simply because I wanted red oxide on underside and interior and few places carry that product. I’m two years into my build and have done everything myself and at home with inexpensive tools and that includes 100% stripping the car. Thanks on advance and once again appreciate the help.IMG_3584.jpeg
 

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I think the answer to your question is dependent on whether or not the number of coats you sprayed on the doors etc were enough for full coverage. If they were it should not matter. Usually three coats for full coverage but a spray out card will tell you for sure.

Mandatory backyard hack disclaimer inserted here…

Don
 
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