Runs in universal clear

2

242 Motorsports

The silver base went down nicely, followed by an intercoat clear.
Tape, mask, grey base, intercoat clear.
Unmask and spray a coat of Universal.
It went on a little dry so I started to get antsy.
Let if flash 30 minutes and went heavy on the 2nd coat of clear.

Mistake :mad-new:

Horizonal surfaces were awesome...vertical surfaces, too, until the sags started.

Now...what do I do next?

Let it dry a few days, knock down the runs and clear it again??
 
242 Motorsports;25401 said:
Let it dry a few days, knock down the runs and clear it again??

Yup, block the runs off very carefully, scuff the rest, clean and reclear.
 
1. Make sure you use coarse enough paper to cut off the runs (this is just like leveling any other imperfection).

2. Make sure everything is super clean before the second clear session.

3. If you rub through to base, you will need to spot in a little base in that area
 
How do you guys feel about the Dolphin glaze method I've read about and seen videos on?
 
i use 2 in tape. remember the run is extremely thicker than the clear. scuff the top off it then let it cure for some time.
dont like the idea of putting polyester on top of fresh clear myself. just dont know how deep it will penetrate .
 
I start with 400 on runs, but not knowing how much clear you have on there, you'll have to be very careful and do your best to concentrate your sanding on the runs. It's very easy to sand the surrounding area too much, get a sand through, and then you'll be doing a more difficult repair.
 
i use 320 wet . the surrounding area never gets sanded until the sag is gone . then it all gets treated the same.
 
I use 320 dry.. I like the tape method also. One of the nice things bout a clear run and adding more clear, you dont have to completely remove the run as the clear you adding on top is not going to prevent you from being able to sand down the uneveness..

With Universal I have let a spot set, and keep coming back and adding extra coats, then let it dry and next day start leveling out that run or sag and not break thru because of the extra materail there with it.. Lots of ways to skin this cat, you just have to find out what works best for you
 
Runs are sanding out nicely with 400 wet followed by 1000 wet.

This was only the 2nd coat of clear.

Since there will be two more coats of clear, will any low spots be filled that I create while sanding down the runs?
 
The dolphin glaze method is you apply a flowable 2 part putty to the area where the bad run is and then sand off the putty when it is cured thus removing the run with the putty. A bit time consuming but it does work. I prefer to use 2 inch tape out side of the area where the run is & then block the heavy areas off. Once they are block flat the tape can be taken off & then finish water sanding up to a 2000 - 3000 polishable grit.
 
242 Motorsports;25542 said:
Runs are sanding out nicely with 400 wet followed by 1000 wet.

This was only the 2nd coat of clear.

Since there will be two more coats of clear, will any low spots be filled that I create while sanding down the runs?


Thoughts, opinions, advice??
 
242 Motorsports;25552 said:
Thoughts, opinions, advice??

If you are polishing finish sand to 2000-3000 & then buff. If you are reclearing 1000 grit is fine. If you have burned through the clear sanding, more base will need to applied to the burn areas. Be gentle with base over the fresh paint to avoid wrinkling or swelling the edge.

Rob
 
I'll be adding 2 more coats clear after I get the runs level.

I'll go to 1000 to prep for the additional clear.
 
You go 800 or 1000 you'll be just fine. How much you planning on sanding when done. I would probulay do three coats rather than two. Depends on how slick you get those two coats. Joe
 
The coats are slick, but not having a true spray booth, there are dust nibs in every coat. Not many, but some.

I really hurt myself with these runs.

The base was nearly perfect and the clear was looking good, then I got greedy.

I'll be working on sanding the runs out today.

Updates to follow.
 
Do the runs have to be 100% smooth or will the next coats of clear cover them?

I took them to 1000 but you can still feel a little lumpyness where they were.

My fear is getting through to the base since there are only two coats of clear at this point.
 
If you can still see or feel the lumpy spot it's going to show when you start putting more clear over those area's. Are you using a hard block or paint stick on those spots? Try some 600 wet or dry with a hard block or paint stick . Be Patient and take your time you should be able to block area's flat. Joe
 
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