Runs and Sags in Universal Clear

  • Thread starter moparmusclecars
  • Start date
M

moparmusclecars

I am embarrassed to even have to post this and ask, but what is the best procedure to take care of this issue? I have read other posts on this type of stuff. I have sprayed maybe four gallons of UV without incident, until now. It has been raining here for the past week, and was a bit cold so I turned the heat on in my booth. This is a dealer 2010 Hyundai car white in color (door). All was well until the second coat of clear, and I guess I got carried away. I could start to see the sagging and then a run after I cleaned my gun. I used polar accelerator in the clear also. Left the paint booth on 65 degrees over night. With two coats of clear (and accelerator), how long do I need to wait until I can sand this stuff down? So if I understand correctly, I can block it down with 400. Can i go to 600, 800, 1000, 1500 and buff if able? I am thinking I need to 400, then 1000 and re-clear. How long do I need to wait after sanding it all out to re-clear? What if I have to re-base in the event of a break through? Do I need to spray three coats of clear the second time around, or will two coats be fine on a dealer car? It seems in the past when I have sanded down a run or a sag, if it isn't totally gone, you could still see it with buffing. Just want to make sure I handle this correctly. Thanks, Guys!
 
Maybe for next time, not sure this is the cause or not but I have ran into this before. Was the can of clear cold from setting in shop? Not a bad idea to store paint stuff in house if heat left off at night for 24 hours as the inside of can will not increase as fast as the shop temp will, can take 48 hours for inside of can to reach 62-64 degrees if in a 70 degree environment.

Polar only effect the cure, not the flash.

I would after 24 hours take some 400 and just level out the runs since you only have two coats and then 1500 the rest of car to buff.
If plan is to re-clear, 320 dry the runs until level with the paint next to it, then wet sand the car with 400, 600 or 800 to re-clear, 800 may be the safest.
 
Thanks for the reply, Barry! No, the clear was in the booth to start with, so I believe it was warm. I think I got too carried away with spraying it on. I was not really wanting to have to re-clear this one, since it is a dealer car, but I will see after i cut it down and try buffing. Should I be able to re-clear after the 24 hour wait, and sanding out the runs? Do i need to wait longer after sanding out the runs and sags before re-clearing (past the already 24 hour wait)? Thanks
 
ok to clear after the sanding, if you can sand it then it's cured up enough not to worry
 
Bob is right.

Here is how I handle my runs, since you not looking to re-clear.

Take 320 DA paper and use no block, just two finger tips.
Sand from floor to top of car and only the high spot of run will not take a minutes and once you see the run is level to the flat clear next to it stop.
Then I break up a paint stick or use a small block and start blocking with 600 or 800, then I go to 1500 and buff.
It is the only way I personally know how to get out a run and it not leave a shadow after buffing.
 
I am a bit confused by this statement, "Sand from floor to top of car and only the high spot of run will not take a minutes and once you see the run is level to the flat clear next to it stop". So do you mean to just use two fingers with 320 da paper and just work on the runs, sanding from bottom to top of the runs? On the sags, just block them flat with the rest of the clear? I understand the rest of the process, just got confused with this statement. Thanks for the clarification.
 
put a piece of 2 in tape over the sag. use 320 wet and sand through the tape into the sag. when done you should have the outline of the sag sanded through. in doing this you only cut the sag . it will cut down flat this way then you can hit it with 600-1000 etc and buff. 9 out of 10 times people will burn through on the outside of the run before getting it flat.
 
Sorry about that, yes with your two fingers only sand the highest part of run, usually runs drip down and that is why we go up and down sanding instead of sideways, this way you are not sanding the flat clear that causes you to break through most of the time or see the run when done.
 
Shine and Barry's technique are both great....I use both of them frequently. LOL. Depends on the nature of the run and where it is at. I mostly use Barry's way and have been for a while.

Shine's way is more full proof from breaking through.
 
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