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Repair or replace quarter panel. Pics inside

#1
This panel was replaced at some point in my car's life and though the repair is dimensionally correct, I am having rust issues due to poor priming/ sealing of the joints. As you can see there's rust in the bottom of the quarter panel that will have to be replaced as well as around the perimeter where the panel was welded in.

Should I remove this panel and start over? Unfortunately panels for this car are expensive if you can even get them.

Thanks



















Also heres a section from the toyota factory manual on quarter panel replacement to get a better picture of what I'm working with.



 
#3
Well I got the quarter panel off. Finally had time. I have a new quarter panel to go back on and a patch to go on the inside of the bottom where you can see I cut it. The outer wheel house has some damage and ideally I'd like to replace it however that part is discontinued. Any suggestions on how I should repair it? I can hammer and dolly most but was wondering if I should cut out and patch the section with the crease. I plan on repairing all the flanges and using panel bond to reattach and butt weld the seams around the window and door frame. Thanks
 
#4
Panel bond by itself not a good idea at all. It is best used in conjunction with a Pro-spot welder. Other wise I would epoxy and plug weld with mig then flood seam with epoxy again where possible.
 
#6
Okay, thanks for the replies guys. The panel bond require I spot weld the rear panels together, butt weld the seams and then use the panel bond along the other seams. I know we used it for OEM repair at the Acura body shop I worked at when I was younger and like the idea as it completely eliminates the possibility of the spot welds rusting.
 
#7
Hey guys finally getting to replace this panel, almost ready to burn it in but wanted some input on a gap problem I am having.




As you can see my gap is a little tighter towards the bottom and a bit wider at the top. I have tried adjusting the door but can't seem to get it any more uniform. Am I just not adjusting the door correctly? The quarter panel seems to be right where it needs to be. My gaps at the rear hatch are spot on and the line from the door to the quarter at the top where the widow mouldings meet look good too. Thanks for the help!
 
#9
Hey MP&C, I admit in these pictures the car was not on it's suspension. Just to confirm though I put the car back on all 4 wheel and leveled the car, adjustable coilovers, remounted the quarter panel and have the same problem, the gap looks identical.
 
#11
The quarter was replaced the first time due to a collision. I have no information about the accident, there is no official record of it. I am replacing the replacement quarter due to the first replacement not being sealed correctly and having rusted out at the bottom and along the wheel well.
 
#12
Even though the gap does not visually change, it's very important to have the vehicle resting level on the wheels or on the spring mounts if the suspension is apart during the whole process, especially welding. The bottom of the quarter gap being close (actually the top looks too open from here) can be from lots of things, the first few that come to mind:

Front of the quarter and back of the door are too high.
Lower part of wheelhouse out too far.
Back of vehicle has sag (low).

Or it could be none of the above, or a combination.

I don't think it's possible to diagnose this condition using just pictures. High-buck collision shops use a 3D measuring system to inform them, but careful use of a tram gauge, tape measure, and having the vehicle leveled on a datum plane like a jig, frame machine, or in a pinch a really nice concrete floor will be close.

It probably has a slight amount of uncorrected structural damage.