Repainting a Black Van with decals removed. Do I need to STM to avoid future ghosting

no , the rep was told to get the hell out of my shop and never return. i threatened to switch back to dupont. the van company was told they could find another shop if they liked. to this day i want no paint rep anywhere near my shop.

but i'm done with this guy . he's sprayed lacquer for 10 years so he's an expert i guess since he tried to school me on it. i need to stay the hell off the net so it's my bad for trying to help.

later
 
Ive never personally experienced this, BUT I remember a friend who had cars in hotrod magazine ( that was impressive to me ) and ran a shop.. He told me to always take a pinstripe area to bare metal and DA the hell out of it with 80 grit.. He told me it would ghost otherwise.. I had no reason to doubt him and I have always done that.. When I saw this thread it took me back.. He was a great guy, but he couldnt keep his tally wacker in his pants and lost everything he had worked for :(
 
With all due respect shine, All I was saying is that there may have been another cause for what you (and others) have seen with the stickers ghosting. That's all.
 
Be cheaper to buff it out a couple times a year than invest $$ into something that sounds like a no win.
 
your the one who asked for help . i did not ask for your opinion or evaluation nor do i intend to argue with you or anyone else.
 
shine;16970 said:
your the one who asked for help . i did not ask for your opinion or evaluation nor do i intend to argue with you or anyone else.
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That's all fine by me shine. I don't intend to argue with anyone either. But for the interest of the thread and it's input, I would like to get to the bottom of the best way for this to be done. Data using old products which may have been very valid back in 1984 may or may not apply to today's finishes on post lacquer cars. I have a 1984 GM suburban with a 2 tone factory finish by the way. Nice old truck. It's a diesel. No power but good MPG. I rarely drive it these days.

Back to the original purpose in this thread... to get to the bottom of the best way to fix this problem. This is not a 1984 paint job nor lacquer. Whether or not the rules still apply as far as sanding to bare metal is something I'm very interested in finding out. Others should be interested too. If I did this every day like some on here do, I'd definitely be interested in saving time if I could.

Rules can change as time progresses and new technology is used. Not saying they have but if they have I'd like to know about it. No sense in sanding to bare metal and cutting into the E-coat if I don't have to. Also, I'd prefer not to have to go courser than 320 if I can avoid it and get away with just scuffing.
 
It's best to do i the way shine says. I had a problem a few years ago and even had to skim coat with bondo after going to bare metal. Had to redo that job 3 times before getting it to quit ghosting. The advice you been getting here is from past experience imo.
 
Jwimmer, thanks for sharing. Question for you, was that on a 2k finished vehicle? Any other information such as year and make?
 
I think this topic has been beaten to death. It is what it is... a real PIA! If you don't think the advice is solid go and try it for yourself. I'm at the point of locking this thread. Shine is right as are many others. Take it or leave it.
 
Dub;16975 said:
I think this topic has been beaten to death. It is what it is... a real PIA! If you don't think the advice is solid go and try it for yourself. I'm at the point of locking this thread. Shine is right as are many others. Take it or leave it.
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Sound of lock snapping shut :cool:
 
lock it delete it throw it in the dump. this shit belongs over there. this has to be the one all time worst thread we have had here. like i haven't painted anything since 84 .
 
Let me say I don't know the answer to this but it must do with the metal being protected and here is my only basis for this.

Back a long time ago, longer then most of you are old, I worked at a chevy dealer as a painter, I had a zero comeback rate and was turning 150-275 hours a week, then one day the dealer took in around ten, three year old vans with decals on the side as trade-ins and my job was to give a paint job after removing there decals.

Simple enough, until they all started to come back and I was doing nothing on Saturdays and Sundays but redoing vans for free.

In the meantime they had hired a 4th body man and this guy heard about the comebacks and asked me how I had done them.
I said heat gunned off the decal and stripped to bare metal with an 80 DA, he said won't work, grind the decal off to bare metal with a 7" 24 grit grinder, then buzz metal with a 40 and then 80 DA and they will never show again.

He was right.
 
does this decal shadow experience apply to removing cleared over stock harley decals and re-painting the tank as well? or are those decals different and dont leave a shadow or line?
 
Maybe, I've buzzed off harley decals and never took it to bare metal, and never seen any problems. Many chevy 4x4 and Z-71 decals and never seen any problems, maybe it had something to do with the phosphate coating that was commonly used years ago? I would also bet if it's heat related this area isn't as prone to problems as Arizona, or Texas. I know in the days of lacquer the paint and primer below the decal area was always preserved compared to the rest of the finish. Quite the phenomena.
 
Sorry for bumping a old thread but i have a great pic to illustrate this point.

Media blasted with plastic.
10527506_685831573015_5961758245519423687_n.jpg

2K over Epoxy
10363831_693402750315_5199499501414812266_n.jpg
 
thank you for posting this. it gets old trying to explain something to help someone and have to argue with them about something they have no clue about.
 
I have always used a 4 " grinder with a foam looking wheel, take too the metal and da with 80 them epoxy prime, 240 da and reprime . I haven't had any trouble so far but theirs always that one time!
 
DEIVIONCRX;39283 said:
Sorry for bumping a old thread but i have a great pic to illustrate this point.

Media blasted with plastic.
10527506_685831573015_5961758245519423687_n.jpg

2K over Epoxy
10363831_693402750315_5199499501414812266_n.jpg
Click to expand...

That's awesome! And did we arrive at a conclusion as to what causes this phenomena?
 
it was explained to me as being the way the metal heats and cools. the metal under the vinyl does not shrink as much so it ends up raised slightly.
 
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