reducing primers... why??

B

bomccorkle

I have read thru the tech sheets and have seen that 2k primer is reducable up to 25% and that to use epoxy as a sealer its advisable to reduce. Just from curiosity I was wondering why you do this?? Does it cause it to flow better and he smoother?? I would assume that it would affect coverage but being new to this I really am not sure was just wondering.
 
for epoxy as a sealer it lays out smoother with less texture for your base. for a sealer you dont really need alot of build. your just spraying a super thin coat to help adhesion and maybe smooth some sanding scratches out then you go right to the base.
 
Thanks Jim that is what I had assumed. I have seen on the site the epoxy sealer ratio anywhere from 2 oz. Per quart to as much as mixing 1:1:1. Is there a sweet spot for this??
 
i mix it thin. usually 1:1:1 but it depends. sometime ill go a little thicker and reduce it less, maybe .5 at the most. i would rather put 2 thin coats on than 1 heavier coat.
 
Excellent . thanks for the help. I am assuming that the smoother my sealer is the smoother my base will appear as well. Hopefully (this is my first time) I can get all that depth I see in the cars that you can tell someone worked hard on.
 
Just to be clear, 1:1:1 means the same amount of primer, activator and urethane reducer?

I need to paint some 65 Mustang doors, and I'm worried that the epoxy as I usually spray it would completely fill the interior "grain" that's pressed into the steel. i was gonna prime the inside with the primer as reduced as far as I can go.

 
yes the 1:1:1 mix would be great for those doors. it wont fill the texture. yes its all equal parts
 
Funny, I'm currently skinning and repairing my 69 mustang doors. The last few pieces before the final all over....
 
That's cool! Now I feel less guilty about the thread jack, lol....

I guess you know what to do with the inside of the doors.
 
Yep yep. Currently fixing the lower front corner on my passenger side.... I went and bought another door that looked to have a pinhole there from the salvage that needed skinned. Ripped the skin off and discovered that it was worse than the shell I had.... $100 really well spent.... Oh well I think I can cut some parts off the salvage door to repair my original door.... Whatta pain. I would have bought repops but the couple I've seen have been a marginal fit really, shame you can't get more than "good enough" steel for these cars....
 
I hear you. I have had a total of three pairs of repro doors here for my 65, evidently from three different MFGs. All had something wrong with them. the best fitting ones had "inverse" grain. I did have one pair that had OK grain, but only the PS fit.

I decided to work on some old doors, and from 5 of them I think I'm almost ready with two of them. I probably have 40 hours in them. I guess I'm slow, lol.

Drivers side:









For the PS I got a little smarter and cut a patch for the front of the PS door from the back of a drivers side door.














Not quite done with that one yet.
 
Exactly what I am doing. I cheated on the area near the skin lip is not the same front to back on these doors so I built up weld all thru there and ground to match. Then the area at the inside I am patching with the rear from another door. Luckily 69-70 have no grain down low they are just painted black to match the upper and lower dash and a cover goes on the upper.
 
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