Rebuilding entire truck bed

P

portland

Will epoxy primer provide enough protection for overlapping bed panels that are bolted together or do all edges need to be cut in with paint? Bed is a '68 Chevy and all panels will be primed with SPI epoxy.
Thanks
 
Shine,
I agree that painting then assembling would be the best job but I don't think I have the skills/patience and space to pull that off. Would you agree that the epoxy would be better than what the factory coating was on these overlapped areas?
 
If you don't plan to disassemble it I would suggest you should use 3M urethane Ultrapro seam sealed on all the lapped joints. It sticks to fresh epoxy like weld and will seal those joints so no moisture can get in there-it'll last forever.
 
It is completely disassembled now and all pieces are going to be primed first with SPI epoxy. I'll look into the Ultrapro. Does that sealer remain flexible? Would I apply it right before paint at the seam and not between the pieces?
 
portland;6493 said:
It is completely disassembled now and all pieces are going to be primed first with SPI epoxy. I'll look into the Ultrapro. Does that sealer remain flexible? Would I apply it right before paint at the seam and not between the pieces?
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The sealer remains flexible forever-awesome stuff, I've been using it since it was first introduced in 89'. Make sure to use the urethane version that comes in the breakfast sausage type tubes-they are called chubs, there is also a solvent based ultrapro that is junk-stay away from any solvent based sealers. Prime your parts with epoxy, apply a bead of the sealer on all lap areas and bolt the box together, wipe off the excess the squishes out-this will provide the best corrosion resistance. Most people assemble then apply the sealer to cover the edge of the seam but the seam will still have an open void this way and if there's any entry point for water you could eventually end up with a hotspot for corrosion. You've got a perfect opportunity to assemble that box right.
 
Bob Hollinshead;6485 said:
If you don't plan to disassemble it I would suggest you should use 3M urethane Ultrapro seam sealed on all the lapped joints. It sticks to fresh epoxy like weld and will seal those joints so no moisture can get in there-it'll last forever.
Click to expand...

Bob Hollinshead;6522 said:
The sealer remains flexible forever-awesome stuff, I've been using it since it was first introduced in 89'. Make sure to use the urethane version that comes in the breakfast sausage type tubes-they are called chubs, there is also a solvent based ultrapro that is junk-stay away from any solvent based sealers. Prime your parts with epoxy, apply a bead of the sealer on all lap areas and bolt the box together, wipe off the excess the squishes out-this will provide the best corrosion resistance. Most people assemble then apply the sealer to cover the edge of the seam but the seam will still have an open void this way and if there's any entry point for water you could eventually end up with a hotspot for corrosion. You've got a perfect opportunity to assemble that box right.
Click to expand...

Is this the stuff?
http://3mcollision.com/3m-urethane-seam-sealer-08361-gray.html
8361.jpg
 
Yup, it's been around for around many years now, proven product, works awesome over epoxy within the recoat window or just scuff your primer before application. Shoot some primer or paint over it 4-24 hrs after application. It won't shrink up a crack like the old solvent based sealers that killed many of the old cars. You wouldn't believe the stuff I've done and seen done with this stuff-it was first introduced as a sealer/adhesive. There are some copies out there but they aren't as good in some respects. I like it better than the production orientated quick dry 2K sealers. Wear gloves-it likes to stick to skin.
 
How do you apply the Ultrapro chub? Doesn't look like it will work in a cartridge gun. I will be needing a good seam sealer on a truck bed also and am interested in the Ultrapro urethane sealer. Thanks.
 
Bob Hollinshead;11920 said:
There's a special gun for it. http://3mcollision.com/3m-flexible-package-applicator-08398.html

Fusor has an ultrapro-like sealer that's available in a regular caulking tube and also chubs but I've had it shrink and split a couple times-wasn't happy: http://www.lord.com/Products-And-Solutions/Adhesives/Automotive-Repair-Adhesives/Product.xml/340
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What sealer did Ford use in the late 90's/ early 2000's? Maybe they still use it.

That stuff stays pliable for 13 + years , has a great build, and takes paint good.

Any ideas what it is or comparable?

A good read on how to apply for us novices: http://www.autobodystore.com/seamsealer.shtml
 
Senile Old Fart;11927 said:
What sealer did Ford use in the late 90's/ early 2000's? Maybe they still use it.

That stuff stays pliable for 13 + years , has a great build, and takes paint good.

Any ideas what it is or comparable?



A good read on how to apply for us novices: http://www.autobodystore.com/seamsealer.shtml
Click to expand...


Yeah some of the new oem stuff is good and I think most of it is heat set urethane. Still I see some design failures where they chose how and where to apply it. Example: Awhile back I did a 3/4 rear section on an 03 Taurus for a good friend of mine, car was only a few years old then and had only 12K on the odometer and when I pulled the quarter panel off there was scaly rust internally along the wheel opening and dogleg area-the car was gathering dust through the poorly sealed wheel opening flange and the dust was holding moisture(MUD) causing the corrosion, then on the rear panel the engineers decided to use this super nice heat set sealer that was resistance welded through the sealer and those seams were sealed well enough that they will never corrode or leak-now why didn't they use that sealer on the whole car?!?!?! DESIGNED LIFESPAN is the only explanation I can think of...
 
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