Question for Barry & the other pro's about surface prep before epoxy

[shine]

once overlaps are rusted that's it. i don't know of anything that will get in and get out. dipping maybe but then you have to pray it gets rinsed out. starblast did about the best job on those areas . it is fine enough to clean out crevices and pits. then i just epoxy. i just prefer epoxy to anything else. i also use lizardskin so i want everything in epoxy first before covering it up . bob will have to talk about the cavity wax. i'm dumb as a tree stump on that. lot of guys here use it .

i honestly believe there are some cars that just cant be saved. i've seen guys go nuts on a gulf coast car . no matter what they did rust just kept bleeding out.

 

[Bob Hollinshead]

The cavity wax works good, some seep into crevices well and also crawl up verticle surfaces. The coating is also self healing. Cosmoline is similar. Dipping won't remove corrosion from tight seams and ecoat doesn't stop a rusty seam for very long -the only way to stop the rust growth if you can't remove the rust within a seam is to seal it from the elements that cause rust. I've also had good luck opening up seams and carefully blasting them followed by epoxy primer, apply urethane seam sealer and close it back up while the sealer is wet-example:drip rails on 30's era cars can be delt with this way and any seam that isn't folded. Folded seams are a challenge.