production clear correction

Concave areas are challenging for run removal. It's also a very visible area. If I was doing that, I would have it in the back of my mind that the panel might need to be re-shot.
 
This is why I came back to Here.
Lots changed and was curious about what you all were talking about regarding the,
Putty.... Nobody mentioned, Glazing.....for all I know It was Play Doh.
Very cool. Just like finish Sanding and Buffing NOW.
Presta was the 'best when I quit and now,It's history.
Thanks MJM. Great video.
 
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crashtech said:
Concave areas are challenging for run removal. It's also a very visible area. If I was doing that, I would have it in the back of my mind that the panel might need to be re-shot.
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Hi all,
Wow!!- Good thing i did not read this comment before now)... The thought of a re spray would have hurt me alot .This am i awoke and said thats it, im going take care of that cc run; thanks to everyone and Mike on here..I started with the 3m soft/flexible pad with 400 grit dry, working from seam/body line in hood and down, towards headlight. That is where the cc was heaviest. I went very easy with the 400 until most all of the run was removed. I took my time and was patient, also cleaned my glasses....After this i went through all the grits, finishing with 2000..I am very happy with the outcome..There is a Very tiny wave left ;showed my neighbor and he did not see the wave nor could find it..Thanks again all. The rest of the paint correction should be straight forward
 
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Hi all again...After a cut, compound, and polish, is there anything else we can apply that is safe before the 90 window for waxing etc?...Or is that it, drive it for a while, after 3 months or so, then get surface squeaky clean again before applying a wax or sealant.....
 
hapcj7 said:
Hi all again...After a cut, compound, and polish, is there anything else we can apply that is safe before the 90 window for waxing etc?...Or is that it, drive it for a while, after 3 months or so, then get surface squeaky clean again before applying a wax or sealant.....
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Waxes etc are not needed with quality clear imho. Just a little detail spray and you’re good to go.

Don
 
I'd wait as long as you can bring yourself to wait. If you give in, Barry suggests a quality carnauba wax. I think a good clay bar session a couple times a year followed by a polishing is a good idea. Contaminates will dull a finish a lot.
 
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