R
redstangbob
Just picked up fenders for my F 150. What should I do for prep before paint? I have SPI epoxy and turbo. Thanks, Bob
D
Deleted member 7
A couple ways you can go about it..
A shop will generally just scuff the ecoat with a scuff pad and shoot the base and clear right over that.. Myself, I always scuff it, and apply one reduced coat of epoxy over it first, then shoot my base and clear..
If you are going to do it the latter way, I suggest mixing your epoxy 1:1 per the directions, then adding 30-50% urethane reducer to that to make your epoxy a very thin sealer.. Shoot 1 wet coat, not a heavy coat as it will run possibly, then let your panel set for 30-60 minutes and base right over it..
Again, its personal preference on how you do it bro.. I also mix my epoxy and reduce it the full 50%.. I want my sealer coat to be paper thin.. I have been doing this for years now and love it.. Takes all the build out of the epoxy, which you dont want build for a sealer coat of this nature..
Happy Spraying
A shop will generally just scuff the ecoat with a scuff pad and shoot the base and clear right over that.. Myself, I always scuff it, and apply one reduced coat of epoxy over it first, then shoot my base and clear..
If you are going to do it the latter way, I suggest mixing your epoxy 1:1 per the directions, then adding 30-50% urethane reducer to that to make your epoxy a very thin sealer.. Shoot 1 wet coat, not a heavy coat as it will run possibly, then let your panel set for 30-60 minutes and base right over it..
Again, its personal preference on how you do it bro.. I also mix my epoxy and reduce it the full 50%.. I want my sealer coat to be paper thin.. I have been doing this for years now and love it.. Takes all the build out of the epoxy, which you dont want build for a sealer coat of this nature..
Happy Spraying
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
If the fenders are aftermarket, the primer needs to be checked for solubility by wetting a wipe with reducer and rubbing the primer. If the reducer takes it off, the primer should be completely removed.
If the primer is not soluble, a very good scuffing with a red pad (no more shiny spots) followed by epoxy is best, as BK says. 2K urethane primer is also acceptable, if there are no bare metal spots.
If the primer is not soluble, a very good scuffing with a red pad (no more shiny spots) followed by epoxy is best, as BK says. 2K urethane primer is also acceptable, if there are no bare metal spots.
R
redstangbob
Ok, thanks guys, it doesn't sound too bad. Now to drag the space heater out
