Primer imperfections when

D

Donny

Promoted Users
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Hey guys, when I clean this area with W/G remover it show some minor imperfections in the primer. Will reduced epoxy cover this?? When dry, it looks smooth like a baby’s a**.
 
Funny thing is I used dry coat, didn’t show up. It’s a brand new fender. Keep in mind the pic is magnified and it looks worse in pic.
 
I would have guessed the poly primer would fill those pits. Seems odd.

I can also see sand scratches which also seems odd. What grit was the poly sanded with before 2K?

Don
 
guide coat it, sand it some more. By the looks of your process you would have material on there to work with.
 
Reduced epoxy won’t fill that. If it were me I’d take a little glazing putty to smooth it out, sand it down then you’re back in business.

I too noticed the sanding scratches in there and they’ll still show through the epoxy.
 
400 grit sandpaper. Using a solid color base. I think I might shoot another layer of 2k. I mean dry, the damn thing looks very good.
 
just a question, what are we looking at and what did it look like before you started priming and sanding it?

Also, what grits did you go through when sanding it?
 
Donny said:
400 grit sandpaper. Using a solid color base. I think I might shoot another layer of 2k. I mean dry, the damn thing looks very good.
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The final panel won’t look dry though, it will look wet because it is shiny and refracts light differently, which will magnify scratches.

I will spray solvent wax and grease remover over spots to highlight any scratches. It mimics a clearcoat.

I don’t see the need for more 2k, just some glazing putty unless you don’t have that. If you don’t, however, I highly recommend getting some because it is really valuable for filling in tiny imperfections like that are noticed at the last minute. It’s very creamy, sands very easily, fills in tiny imperfections and scratches, and can be applied over 2k.

I wet sand my final coat of 2k with 320-400 for solids prior to sealer and you get better reduction of rogue scratches like that. 400 dry should be fine but if you aren’t prudent about emptying your paper, the buildup can create an inconsistent scratch profile. My sealer isn’t reduced any more than 10%.
 
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Lizer said:
The final panel won’t look dry though, it will look wet because it is shiny and refracts light differently, which will magnify scratches.

I will spray solvent wax and grease remover over spots to highlight any scratches. It mimics a clearcoat.

I don’t see the need for more 2k, just some glazing putty unless you don’t have that. If you don’t, however, I highly recommend getting some because it is really valuable for filling in tiny imperfections like that are noticed at the last minute. It’s very creamy, sands very easily, fills in tiny imperfections and scratches, and can be applied over 2k.

I wet sand my final coat of 2k with 320-400 for solids prior to sealer and you get better reduction of rogue scratches like that. 400 dry should be fine but if you aren’t prudent about emptying your paper, the buildup can create an inconsistent scratch profile. My sealer isn’t reduced any more than 10%.
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Thank you. I was dry sanding.
 
I know you said you got epoxy poly and 2k on it but it looks like epoxy over bare metal pits..a new repop fender with pits? Did it sit outside for a long time?
 
RosharonRooster said:
I know you said you got epoxy poly and 2k on it but it looks like epoxy over bare metal pits..a new repop fender with pits? Did it sit outside for a long time?
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It’s not metal pits actually. The fender was mint. I’m thinking it was my spraying technique, I’m Green lol. I reprayed w 2k, blocked again, and it looks so much better. Thank you for the help!!!
 
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