Prepping Fiberglass hood

H

HVAC Phil

I have been repainting the wifes 99 Mustang. We added a cowl induction glass hood to the car last summer(cured in sun for around 3 mos). The hood fits great. The surface "looks" flat, but you never know once you start blocking. If it needs filler at all, is evercoat rage fine to use on glass? Here's my plan, let me know if something needs changed.

1. Clean hood with water w&g remover(SPI)
2. Rough block hood with 220 to find any low spots.
3. Fill low spots with rage filler.
4. Block spots and hood with 320.
5. Spray SPI epoxy.
6. Spray SPI 2k primer.
7. Block with 320 again, guide coated.
8. Seal with reduced epoxy, color, clear.

Sound good?
 
There are lots of people on here that can help more than me on fiberglass, but I have a couple suggestions

220 is too fine. I would block the glass with atleast 180, probably 100.

If it needs filler, cut with 100 minimum, then smooth with 180.

If you need finishing putty, cut with 180.

Sand primer with 180 until flat with guidecoat. Then re prime and guidecoat, then use 320.

Make sure to let the glass sit a few hours after w/g remover.

I will let some else answer the what filler to use question.
 
HVAC Phil;15378 said:
I have been repainting the wifes 99 Mustang. We added a cowl induction glass hood to the car last summer(cured in sun for around 3 mos). The hood fits great. The surface "looks" flat, but you never know once you start blocking. If it needs filler at all, is evercoat rage fine to use on glass? Here's my plan, let me know if something needs changed.

1. Clean hood with water w&g remover(SPI)
2. Rough block hood with 220 to find any low spots.
3. Fill low spots with rage filler.
4. Block spots and hood with 320.
5. Spray SPI epoxy.
6. Spray SPI 2k primer.
7. Block with 320 again, guide coated.
8. Seal with reduced epoxy, color, clear.

Sound good?
Click to expand...

All good but I agree with Eric the grit 180 or 120 would be my choice to block the gel coat even if it looks flat
 
Agree with all, only thing I might add, is if time allows, use W&G the night before--extreme overkill, but!
 
You could start with 220 to get a feel for the straightness of the panel, but if it is bumpy, break out the coarser grits, which in my shop would be 100 and 150. I assume by fiberglass you are dealing with a gelcoated surface, which generally will be pretty thick and blockable, and will accept poly putty with no issues. Look for hairline cracks in the gelcoat, this can happen even on new parts. Breaking through to the actual 'glass is no problem other than opening up pinholes that will need filled with putty.
 
The hood is a really quality piece, i've never seen glass this nice. Yes is it gelcoated. Thanks guys for all the help, just wanted to be sure about prep before getting started on it. I don't think it's gonna need alot of work...but you never know. The doors on the car didn't look as bad as they were till i started blocking. Gotta be straight, black car.
 
Barryk;15399 said:
Agree with all, only thing I might add, is if time allows, use W&G the night before--extreme overkill, but!
Click to expand...

Thanks Barry, i tend to do overkill on everything to prevent some issues down the road. I'll clean it good the night before i start blocking the gelcoat.
 
HVAC Phil;15409 said:
Thanks Barry, i tend to do overkill on everything to prevent some issues down the road. I'll clean it good the night before i start blocking the gelcoat.
Click to expand...

I would not worry about it before blocking, I was more concerned as far as final washing before laying the epoxy, I would wait over night on that one, if you can.
 
Barry, i'm getting ready to epoxy my fiberglass hood too. I want to make sure I understand. Wait over night after final cleaning of the hood before epoxy is applied?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top