PPG user interested in SPI

  • Thread starter BallsOutPerformance
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BallsOutPerformance

Hello everyone. First post here. Im a hobbyist. 30 years old, been painting since age 16. Ive been using PPG products almost exclusively. Mainly because the local ppg distributor was always so inviting and helpful anytime I had questions. And ive always been pleased with the performance. Anyways.
I havent really painted anything in several years. But ive got a few projects im working on now. Since ive been out of the game my local ppg store closed and the closest one is the next town over. I went there recently to get the supplies and wasnt very impressed on the pricing. PPG has never been cheap, but i know its went up over the years and i no longer get the discount that I used to get from my local guy.
A new paint supply store in my area sells SPI so Im interested in trying it, since ive read such good reviews here. Im happy with the omni plus line of bases im using and the sealer. The main thing im looking im interested in is clearcoats and maybe primers. Im looking to save money but with comparable longevity to the 4000 clearcoat.
I havent priced spi clear from the local storw yet but what type of proce difference can i expect over the 4000 clear and what can i expect as far as differences in use and application of the spi clearcoats and high build 2ks compared to PPG?
Thank you in advance. Sorry for writing a novel.
 
Visit the website:

Have a look around.

Read the tech manual:

Product Pricing:

SPI Universal Clear is superior to any PPG clear I've ever used. SPI Euro Clear is one of the best 4:1 clears I've used. Excellent product for a Collision Shop. Price of all SPI products in relation to comprable PPG product is at least half, oftentimes more than half.
 
Visit the website:

Have a look around.

Read the tech manual:

Product Pricing:

SPI Universal Clear is superior to any PPG clear I've ever used. SPI Euro Clear is one of the best 4:1 clears I've used. Excellent product for a Collision Shop. Price of all SPI products in relation to comprable PPG product is at least half, oftentimes more than half.

Thanks for the reply. So which of the clears would be most comparible to what im used to? I see the euro clear is a 4:1:1. I also see theres a production clear thats 4:1. Everything ive ever used is 4:1.
Also, I see that there is also a 1:1 clear which is interesting.
 
Being that I don't know what you are used to you should read the Tech Manual. Euro or Production would probably come closest. SPI Speed Clear is new and a excellent 1-2 panel clear. Speed Clear is a very unique (and fast) clear. Universal is the 1:1 clear, Show Car and Restoration type clear.

If you are also using epoxy, SPI epoxy is far superior to the crap (DPLF) PPG sells. Think of it as an improved version of the old PPG DP epoxy.
Every product SPI sells is quality, and they manufacture it themselves. They are not reselling some other manufacturers low quality junk. Every product they offer is equal to, or superior to the comparable PPG product. (for half the cost sometimes more than that) When you buy SPI products you are not paying for Charley Hutton or Daryl Hollenbeck's new paint booth like you are when you buy PPG. One reason the cost is so high for PPG products. I know of one shop in my area where they paid for a new downdraft waterbourne booth that cost over 200K. Who do you think pays for that stuff?

BTW I used PPG products for many years.
 
Thanks a lot for all the info. Ill do some more research on the products. As far as what im used to is the shopline/omni 620 or 630 on cheap jobs and PPG DC4000 on quality jobs.
Ive doing DC4000 on the job im working on now, because I already have it. Ive got another job lined up next that Ill try a SPI clear on. Its a big job so the cost savings will be a big help
 
I was using PPG DPLF primer on my signature car but the cost was brutal. Thought I would try SPI epoxy and see how it compared. I have never regretted that decision nor purchased any more PPG products.

I have sprayed the SPI Black Black base on a Harley Ultra Classic and also sprayed a '62 Chevy truck with the SPI Dark Red. Excellent coverage, easy application and very satisfying results.
 
SPI does not have a clear equal to 4000. They are all better. SPI's clears are all polyurethane, which is a superior product in terms of flexibility, durability, chemical resistance, etc. Euro 2020 would be my suggestion, and the 4:1:1 mix gives you much more flexibility adding the reducer yourself. This one clear can be reduced up to 4:1:3 for your cheaper jobs, and still have a superior clear with enough film build for less money. As mentioned above, the speed clear is the go to for rush jobs or bumpers, with no flex additive needed with any SPI clear. I used PPG for 15 years, and would never go back to any of their clears, primers, or reducers.
 
Yeah I forgot to mention, one area that you can save $25-35 a gallon and have a superior product is with SPI's Urethane Reducers. They are better quality than DT Reducers. That is not me repeating marketing BS, that is from my real world experience using both with DBC and how much better DBC sprays and lays down with SPI Reducers versus PPG DT reducers.
 
BallsOut, spi clears come in different flavors, each one is top shelf.
Reducers you'll never buy anything but these again.
 
BallsOut, spi clears come in different flavors, each one is top shelf.
Reducers you'll never buy anything but these again.

I guess thats where my inexperience comes in, because Ive always used shopeline/omni slow reducer for literally everything. Ive never had any bad performance from any products. What Im getting at, is Ive always thought reducers are reducers. I assumed all reducers are the same other than temp obviously.
 
Reducers vary immensely. I had a customer bring me Matrix reducer and base for his vehicle many years ago and the reducer was so hot it swelled everything under it. Never seen anyting like it. I, personally, would not use Omni reducer for anything but washing my gun. Reducer affects everything. Poor reducer can cause loss of adhesion, dieback, solvent pop, splotchy, textured, uneven base, poor blending qualities, and the list goes on. If you haven't had any of these problems, count yourself lucky, and change to a better reducer before it bites you.
 
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To be honest, I used Omni products one time and there is a reason they are less expensive. I put too much time and effort in getting a car ready to paint to not spend enough to get a quality product. Not saying you have to buy super high priced products, just that there are excellent quality products to be had for reasonable amounts of money that will really perform and look fantastic.
I am a fan of the SPI Euro Clear myself but I just shot some Universal recently and was very impressed.
My current project is a 1968 Plymouth GTX and it will get Motobase LV color but everything else will be SPI!
 
I thought someone who used DC4000 would be most interested in SPI Speed Clear, except SPI has no wait between coats, slam 2 coats per panel as you go, and move on with your day.
 
I thought someone who used DC4000 would be most interested in SPI Speed Clear, except SPI has no wait between coats, slam 2 coats per panel as you go, and move on with your day.

The speed clear looks like a good product. Depending on what im working on. Some jobs im only looking to hit it with 2 coats and call it good. Alot of times, especially with an all over ill do 3 coats of clear for a little extra build incase i want to buff. But then again some jobs im stacking clear. One of my upcoming projects is a big car, doing an all over. Looking to lay down 3 coats of clear, then come back after cure and scuff the roof to do a flake job. On that panel im going to be stacking clear and putting it on heavy.
Id love to buy one product for that project.
Im going to continue to cruise the forums and learn about the products offered as to what best suits a particular job.
 
your big car with the flake, you should use universal on that one with the very slow activator. that clear will be great doing custom stuff with a bunch of coats. cant tell you how many flake and graphic jobs i have done over the last 20 years with that clear.
 
your big car with the flake, you should use universal on that one with the very slow activator. that clear will be great doing custom stuff with a bunch of coats. cant tell you how many flake and graphic jobs i have done over the last 20 years with that clear.

Great info there. I was curious what clear would be best for that kind of stuff especially stacking multiple layers of clear, because I know some clear doesnt react well to stacking.
 
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