Panel adhesive and screws

S

spkennyva

I'm going to try my first panel replacement using panel adhesive. I cannot get clamps on the part to secure it, so I guess I have to use screws, right? If so, what is the recommended way to fill screw holes after removal? Also, what screws are recommended?

Thanks
 
On my roof, I used rivets. First I used a dimpling tool from eastwood, so the rivets would be flush. There is something like a temporary rivet you could use too. I think they are called klincos (spelling?).
 
They are "clecos."

The recommended method of filling holes is welding. If you can't do that, make sure the holes are slightly concave, and fill them with the panel adhesive. Once the adhesive is really good and set, sand the adhesive down and apply some generous coats of epoxy primer before proceeding with standard filling and priming procedures. You don't want any panel adhesive poking through any filler work after sanding, keep it under the epoxy primer or it may ring.
 
If the holes have the adhesive under them, which would nomally be the case, then just use the bonding adhesive after you remove the screws. They don't recommend welding within 2 inches of the bonding adhesive. Although, I think you can use a resistance spot welder before it cures. Just going by memory, you might want to check with manufacturer.
 
It is true that if you plan to weld the holes, you need to keep the adhesive out of the weld zone.
 
I only did this once, but it worked. 2 years later, there are no signs of any problems.

I flanged the whole way around on the body where the roof skin would go. Then I drilled holes every 2 inches, maybe closer. I put the adhesive on everything and then screwed it down evenly. Then I took out the screws one at a time and replaced them with rivets (while the adhesive was still wet). I had to sand off some of the squeeze-out and grind down a couple rivets a little. Then I proceded with epoxy and then filler.
 
You can grind the edge of the panel down to a knife edge on some seams-this helps with the expansion/contraction showing the seam later on. Fusor has some good how to info on their website. I remove the screws the next day and countersink the holes then fill them with adhesive-I've also filled the holes with Everglass after coating it with epoxy primer. If you use Fusor adhesive (the best IMO and used by most OEM's) you'll find it has a tacky surface once fully cured-just wipe it off with a thinner rag before you grind/sand/clean-strip the excess off. Epoxy primer goes on before any finishing filler work is done.
 
Bob Hollinshead;12033 said:
You can grind the edge of the panel down to a knife edge on some seams-this helps with the expansion/contraction showing the seam later on. Fusor has some good how to info on their website. I remove the screws the next day and countersink the holes then fill them with adhesive-I've also filled the holes with Everglass after coating it with epoxy primer. If you use Fusor adhesive (the best IMO and used by most OEM's) you'll find it has a tacky surface once fully cured-just wipe it off with a thinner rag before you grind/sand/clean-strip the excess off. Epoxy primer goes on before any finishing filler work is done.
Click to expand...

Tacky surface = aminines? as in epoxy based adhesive, or is it tacky like polyester resin without wax?

thx.
 
Tacky like epoxy, it also changes color a little as it cures-epoxy I believe, I'm not a chemist but I do know it's good stuff.
 
After using some 3M adhesive recently, I forgot to clean it off the putty knife, so I thought that would be a good time to test the heat temperature required for removal. The last time I looked at the temperature it was 346 degrees, and when pushed with another putty knife, the adhesive slid off leaving a clean surface on the knife. I wondered if it would stay tacky after being heated to that temperature, but it was dry, and brittle.
 
My experiences with the 3M panel adhesives was years back and they didn't have that tacky surface like Fusor.
 
No, not at all. I just thought that the heat might make it tacky, then rebond after cooling

I just reread my post, and I did make a mistake. I should not have said stay tacky.
 
To much heat will kill the bond, I learned the hard way years ago with a heat lamp trying to speed up the cure time.
 
I've always left the screws in the steel and take a weld wheel and knock the head off. Move the wheel often as to not heat the screws up to much. Never made much sense to bond something and then fill the screw hole with weld creating a hot spot around the area where the bond is burned off.
 
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